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Early Access
Routes in The Garden Wall
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Cobra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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I'm Lichen It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lockjaw S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shady Affair S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shady Baby T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Shady Boy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shady Girl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 39.73726, -105.31219 |
| FA: | Dave Rogers, LP |
| Page Views: | 893 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Oct 16, 2012 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Alice Savage, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
This is another line that is just to the right of Shady Girl at the Garden Wall. This obvious line called out to be cleaned and climbed. It's partially clean at this point. A brush would be useful. It is probably safer as a TR than a lead.
Start about 6 feet to the right of Shady Girl. Follow a dihedral. The crux is likely exiting the tight dihedral on marginal gear (PG-13 or R). A decent #2 RP protects the exit from this dihedral. Higher up, you can finish left of a large, questionable block by clipping the last 3 bolts of Shady Girl or right on moderate face if on TR.
Rappel off the anchors for Shady Girl.
Just to clarify, the block sitting up ~3/4'rds the way up is too big to just launch with the road just below. It's fairly easy to avoid climbing right or left.
FWIW, this would be more challenging to lead for a shorter climber.
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