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Routes in Iron Curtain

Aloha Patrol S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Red Button S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Central Pillar of Envy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Defector S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Agent S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Top Secret S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fist Full of Rubles S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Shot JFK S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kiss My Kremlin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spy Vs. Spy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Issue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
White Flag S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Aaron Rough and Dave Stallard
Page Views: 5,302 total, 84/month
Shared By: Rough on Oct 6, 2012 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is currently an anomaly in the Bay Area, a spectacular 4 pitch Sport Route! Start on either Standard Issue or White Flag as the 1st pitch.

P2- 5.10b: Head up the vertical huecos/pockets on the red wall above the belay, then up easier block rock eventually heading slightly left to the anchor.

P3- 5.11b: Up easy rock till the overhanging headwall on steep crimps and big moves between good pockets, sidepulls, and underclings. Clip the Leeper bolts that are painted black (line used to be an oil aid bolt ladder) but don't sweat it it, as there are closely spaced regular bolts nearby! Tackle the final bulge on huge holds and then traverse left to anchors.

P4- 5.10b: The final pitch is super featured and fun up an increasingly vertical wall to just slightly overhung right before the crux and the anchors.

To finish the route either rap the route, or have the 2nd pull the lip and wedge themselves in the gully about 20 feet from the rim. The last person can stay clipped in with a long loop for the final moves over the lip and then just reach back down and unclip the anchors. Walk off to the East.

Location

This is the main line up the center of the longest vertical section of the cliff.

Protection

Lots'ole bolts!

Photos

Brianna Chrisman 1
Mountain View
  5.11b
Brianna Chrisman 1   Mountain View
  5.11b
p1: shitty and scary! And the bolt placement is not ideal. But if you make it past this, the rest of the climb is $$$. Lesson: Don't judge a climb by its first pitch :)

p2: Fun and cruisy!

p3: Sick pitch. One of the coolest heel hooks I've done (and I spent 2 weeks in tonsai!). The bolts are so close together on this that honestly you probably don't have to be a solid 5.11 leader to make it up this pitch without bailing. You can pretty much just do one move at a time and hang, and the follower can even aid with a quickdraw (we got my 5.9/5.10 follower up with some mad belaying). Sending is of course another matter :)

p4: Fun and cruisy again! With some neat moves at the top.

We were stupid and decided to walk off this climb since the bolts were a little loose (these should be tightened). BAD IDEA. The walk off we did was sketchy and long and frustrating. We stemmed down a sketchy gully with the occassional stream, comparable to some of the moves I've done canyoneering. And then had to bushwack etc to get back around the rock to our starting spot. Took us an hour and a half! If I do it again, I will just rap off. May 17, 2017
Alec Sluser
Concord CA
 
Alec Sluser   Concord CA
 
First pitch was pumpy adn relentless, the second and fourth pitch was cake. The money pitch was the third!
You can see my whole trip report here. Mar 5, 2017
Tommy L-D
  5.11b
Tommy L-D  
  5.11b
In winter (Jan/Feb) the route doesn't come into the sun until ~noon, cold before that.

You can rap in just two pulls w/70m (4/3 & 2/1)

Expect to pull something off, like Pinnacles or even Tuolumne, you're better off using the matrix vs. knobs

The crux pitch is RAD Jan 31, 2017
Ted Bradley  
 
Great route! I think the height may be high. We rappelled down pitches 1&2 together with a 70m rope which just reached the ground (35m). Pitches 3&4 are shorter (~25m). That puts the total route at 60-65m, which is ~200 feet rather than the 300 feet stated. Jul 5, 2016
I was just on Aloha Patrol last weekend. I love this route. Although the integrity of the bolts in this rock makes me worry. The left anchor bolt at the top of the 1st pitch has a little wiggle to it. So does the one at the top of pitch 3. I'm wondering how long are the bolts that were used for this area. Could it be that the bolts under load have pressed out this soft rock on the inside of the drill holes? They're obviously nice new bolts but the rock is just so soft. Table Rock is my favorite place to go in the Bay Area. The soft rock doesn't scare me away. It would be nice to have a little more piece of mind though. Oct 24, 2015
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, California
 
Austin Donisan   San Mateo, California
 
Pitches 1&2 can be easily linked if you have 20 draws.

Pitches 3&4 are a bit shorter, but your follower will face some rope stretch if they fall on the tough 3rd pitch.

You can rap 3&4 together with a 60m rope with a few meters to spare. Mar 8, 2015
Tibo
 
Tibo  
 
Link pitches 1&2 and 3&4 with a 70m. Feb 1, 2014
whiskerbiscuit
  5.11b
whiskerbiscuit  
  5.11b
One of the worth wile climbs in this area. If you hear rumors about the choss, they are true, but this climb is of better rock quality than most at table rock, and where else in the bayarea can you get up this high! Feb 1, 2014
Nick Giblin
Santa Rosa, CA
 
Nick Giblin   Santa Rosa, CA
 
I was pleasantly surprised with this route. I have tried climbing at table over the last decade and have never really been all that impressed until now. It is a fun level of chossiness on this route. All the hand holds were solid and occasionally a foot hold would break. The first pitch was the headiest. The rest of the route feels like better rock quality. The crux is super fun and the location is killer. Dec 13, 2013
Beautiful line but beware the quality of the rock is a bit messy from time to time, it is possible to take a whipper with a piece of rock in your hand !
The crux section of 3rd pitch is a bit overrated I would say, and it is possible to climb the whole thing in easy aid if needed.
It is possible to top out from it. Apr 15, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
This thing is 4 stars classic the whole way. It's a direct line, exposed, sustained, steep and pretty high up there. Sure, there's a bit of choss and what not, but for this wall...

It's the premier classic for the area for sure. If you come to table and only climb one route, this is the one you want without a doubt. Feb 28, 2013
jacobleowook
Las Vegas
jacobleowook   Las Vegas
Summit with the wife as the sun set.
2 rapps with a 70m gets you to the bottom of the slab just above the ground.
Beautiful and fun route if your in the area. More people need to get on these routes. Def not to be missed if in the bay/northern cal area. Thanks to those who made this beautiful area into a great crag. Feb 27, 2013
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
I agree with the 11B rating. Anyway, a fun route. Do it in two pitches, rappel in three. Feb 1, 2013