Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 2 - Wine Wall

Captain Choss S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grape Juice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Grape Vine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route Whisperer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sauvignon Choss S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Aaron Rough and Dave Stallard
Page Views: 426 total · 7/month
Shared By: Rough on Oct 6, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

P1- (14 bolts) Start just left of a small alcove. Pull up the large features then follow jugs through overlaps on a line that trends slightly left. Rest up at a ledge before tackling the steeper wall with progressively smaller features before the belay ledge is reached.

P2- (9 bolts) Angle slightly right from the belay and tackle the immediate headwall. This is followed by a low angle ramp then finishes with another 4 bolt steeper headwall guarding the top of the cliff and the final anchor.

Location

Just left of the sharp arete of Grape Vine/ Grape Juice.

Protection

P1 - 14 bolts. P2 - 9 bolts

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Top anchor is not rap equipped. You can walk off or rap Aloha, or you could add some links to the top anchor. First pitch is over 30m, so if you want to rap after 1, you need a 70m. Nov 9, 2016
FourT6and2
San Francisco, CA
FourT6and2   San Francisco, CA
Can this be rappeled with one rope? Or do you need a tag line or two ropes? 50, 60, or 70m rope? Nov 9, 2016
Floyd Hayes
  5.10d
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10d
I've posted a video of the climb at youtu.be/yd0EQ6Fepoo Mar 11, 2013
Rough
 
Rough  
 
Glad you got on it Floyd. Its been awhile since I climbed it, but I might have included the anchor bolts in the "bolt count" originally which is why they are off by +2. As for the climbing, I really liked the 1st pitch and thought the second pitch was so so but still fun. We didn't put chains on the top since you can reach them from the lip like you mentioned. We always just belly flopped over the top and walked off. Jan 8, 2013
Floyd Hayes
  5.10d
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10d
I climbed it with Andrew Taylor on July 8, 2012. Pitch 1 had 12 (not 14) protection bolts and pitch 2 had 7 (not 9) protection bolts. On pitch 2 the first headwall felt like 5.10c and the second felt like 5.10d. I took three leader falls at the crux, once when a foothold broke, once when a handhold broke, and once when I simply rested on the rope after clipping a bolt. Luckily I did not hit the big ledge beneath it. There were no chains at the top so we rapped off two quickdraws that we later retrieved by hiking to the top. We had a short rope so we did two rappels. The second rappel ended in a small tree, which wasn't easy to extricate ourselves from. It was a fun adventure, which is why I give it two stars; the quality of climbing is only one star. Jan 7, 2013