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Routes in 6b. Space Your Face Wall

Dazed and Confused S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 225 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: W. Peterson C. Jirka
Page Views: 84 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jeremy Joseph on Sep 30, 2012
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The first pitch is good. It is 155 feet of 10c climbing with good protection. The second pitch is 11a that is really runout! I wouldn't recommend this pitch.

Location

This is on Printer Boy ledge.

Protection

Bolts. You need 19 quickdraws for 10c pitch.

Photos

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Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.11a
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.11a
We rapped this route with a single 80m. The first rap took almost the whole rope, and the second rap, onto the Printer Boy Ledge, involved rapping off the ends while barely touching down on to the ledge. So, you can do it, but just be aware that it isn't ideal. Two more raps from Printer Boy Ledge were easily done after that. Jul 25, 2015
Classic climbing all the way to the top. Jun 15, 2013
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
 
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
 
The 10c pitch on this route is fantastic. I remember a short crux about 2 or 3 bolts up from Printer Boy ledge and then fun climbing with good rests that seems to go on forever! I feel that the second, 11a, pitch should be done to finish on top of Monitor Rock. It's a 1-move wonder slab crux. Once you clip the bolt after the crux wander up and left towards the large dihedral through unprotected terrain. Although scary, the climbing is only 5.6 or 5.7 and if you've made it this far (climbed 10a, 11b, 10c, 11a pitches) you should have no problems with the climbing. Walk off or rap back down the route. Oct 15, 2012