All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Little Matterhorn

Heart of Gratitude

Name: Heart of Gratitude
Rating: 2.0

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R

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Routes in Little Matterhorn

L › R R › L A › Z

	Heart of Gratitude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Lederhosen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
	North Pillar Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	North Pillar Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Southeast Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	40.3753, -105.616
FA:	Mitch Musci, Todd Bol, August 2015
Page Views:	1,639 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Mitch Musci on Sep 23, 2012
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Heart of Gratitude

In memory of the late Andrew Barnes, a wonderful friend and a true inspiration to all.

Heart of Gratitude climbs the scenic east face of Little Matterhorn in 4 pitches, initially aiming for the base of the huge, right-facing corner 150 feet up, but then skirting right on clean, adventurous face climbing and finishing up the arete on featured rock.

Begin at a shallow, right-facing corner that arches up and right near the center of the east face and directly under the huge, right-facing corner above. The start of this route can be reached by several means, see the approach description for Little Matterhorn.

P1 - 5.10b, 140 feet. Climb up into the corner and negotiate a series of tricky stemming and face moves (crux). Continue straight up through a shallow chimney and some nice cracks to a small, grassy belay ledge.

P2 - 5.9 R, 140 feet. Jam an intermittent hand and fist crack off the belay, then step right into a flake system that stays right of the huge RF corner. Finish on clean, exciting face climbing that tops out on a nice belay ledge.

P3 - 5.6, 130 feet. Step up onto a moderate slab and follow it up and right, aiming for a striking roof crack on the crest of the ridge. Breach the roof just right of the roof crack, then step back left and finally down climb a short corner to a comfy belay in a recessed area.

P4 - 5.8, 130 feet. Many options exist. Head straight up steep terrain through a short squeeze out a bulge, then angle up and left to another exposed squeeze in a left facing flake system. One can belay here on the summit ridge, or continue another 50ft past a short 5.7 boulder problem and belay on the summit.

Descent - to return to the base of the route, head west along the west ridge passing 2-3 towers on the right until it is possible to drop down a steep gully to the right (north). The further west you go along the ridge, the easier the descent will be. Once you exit the descent gully, veer right (east) and meander back to the base.

A second option continues a bit further along the west ridge, then drops down the south side through a broad talus field and into a larger field of talus leading down into Odessa Gorge.