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Routes in Little Matterhorn

Heart of Gratitude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lederhosen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
North Pillar Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
North Pillar Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Southeast Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mitch Musci, Monica Annicks
Page Views: 685 total · 9/month
Shared By: Mitch Musci on Aug 7, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This is a variation to North Pillar Left that largely follows its own line, just right of NPL. It takes a direct start to the North Pillar, following slabs and flakes for 3 pitches before joining the top of NPL's first pitch.

At the base of the north face, right of the large gully where North Pillar Left begins, locate a small roof about 40 feet up. The first pitch goes around the right side of this roof.

P1 - (5.5 R, 180 feet). Climb nice slabs passing the right side of the roof mentioned above. Continue straight times you can step left or right and climb steep grass ledges, but I chose to stay on the rock. Belay at a nice grassy ledge with a hand-sized crack.

P2 - (5.7, 170 feet). Keep going straight up slabs and cracks to the base of a bulging wall. Take a steep flake system on the left side of this wall with good pro, then belay on another grassy ledge.

P3 - (5.4, 60 feet). A moderate ramp leads up to the base of the north pillar directly above you. Climb the right side of this ramp...there is a grassy gully just to your right. Belay on a small ledge with a splitter hand crack for an anchor.

P4 - (5.6 R, 200 feet) This pitch shares terrain with North Pillar Left but stays right for a more direct finish. Follow the nice hand crack for about 40 feet up and left, then angle right and straight up the pillar. Pass a cluster of loose blocks on the right, then stretch the rope out to a ledge at the base of a blank slab.

P5 - (5.5 R, 150 feet). Boulder up the clean slab with no gear, then follow easier ground along an exposed ridge to a belay at a large block. North Pillar Left goes left on the ridge to an optional 5.7 step.

Some 4th class scrambling gains the summit from here.

Descent - to return to the base of the route, head west along the west ridge passing 2-3 towers on the right until it is possible to drop down a steep gully to the right (north). The further west you go along the ridge, the easier the descent will be. Once you exit the descent gully, veer right (east) and meander back to the base.


Standard rack to 3 inches. Doubles of 1-3 inches can be helpful for the third belay.



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