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Routes in Little Matterhorn

Heart of Gratitude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lederhosen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
North Pillar Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
North Pillar Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Southeast Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Aidan Goldie and Conor Felleter
Page Views: 281 total, 13/month
Shared By: Aidan Goldie on Feb 21, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

At the top of the 4th class ramp, stay right until you are close to a steep drop off. You'll see a headwall above and large block with a clean crack splitting it. You will aim for the crack to start the route.

P1. Climb up the ramp up to the large, obvious crack splitting a block. This crack begins with a #1 Camalot and opens up to at #3 Camalot. Climb above the crack, and run out some easy climbing on a small ridge. Place protection when you can, and find a nice belay ledge about 30 meters above the belay (5.9).

P2. Scramble up to a left-facing dihedral. A crack goes up the length of the dihedral that takes #2 Camalots. Follow the ridge to the summit after climbing the dihedral.

Descend via 3rd class to ridge to talus field on climber's left.

Location

This route goes to the right of the Southeast Ridge (5.5) route. Approach from the south in the valley west of Odessa Lake. Cross Fern Creek, and head up the slope from a small pond towards an open talus field. Stay to the right while scrambling up the talus field, and go towards a long, forested ramp. You'll be above the trees. Scramble up some easy 3-4th class terrain, and trend right until the ramp becomes nearly vertical and there is a steep drop off to your right. The route begins here.

Protection

Standard alpine rack up to #3 Camalot.

Photos

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