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Routes in Little Matterhorn
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Heart of Gratitude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lederhosen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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North Pillar Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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North Pillar Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Southeast Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Aidan Goldie and Conor Felleter |
| Page Views: | 1,124 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Aidan Goldie on Feb 21, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
At the top of the 4th class ramp, stay right until you are close to a steep drop off. You'll see a headwall above and large block with a clean crack splitting it. You will aim for the crack to start the route.
P1. Climb up the ramp up to the large, obvious crack splitting a block. This crack begins with a #1 Camalot and opens up to at #3 Camalot. Climb above the crack, and run out some easy climbing on a small ridge. Place protection when you can, and find a nice belay ledge about 30 meters above the belay (5.9).
P2. Scramble up to a left-facing dihedral. A crack goes up the length of the dihedral that takes #2 Camalots. Follow the ridge to the summit after climbing the dihedral.
Descend via 3rd class to ridge to talus field on climber's left.
P1. Climb up the ramp up to the large, obvious crack splitting a block. This crack begins with a #1 Camalot and opens up to at #3 Camalot. Climb above the crack, and run out some easy climbing on a small ridge. Place protection when you can, and find a nice belay ledge about 30 meters above the belay (5.9).
P2. Scramble up to a left-facing dihedral. A crack goes up the length of the dihedral that takes #2 Camalots. Follow the ridge to the summit after climbing the dihedral.
Descend via 3rd class to ridge to talus field on climber's left.
Location
This route goes to the right of the Southeast Ridge (5.5) route. Approach from the south in the valley west of Odessa Lake. Cross Fern Creek, and head up the slope from a small pond towards an open talus field. Stay to the right while scrambling up the talus field, and go towards a long, forested ramp. You'll be above the trees. Scramble up some easy 3-4th class terrain, and trend right until the ramp becomes nearly vertical and there is a steep drop off to your right. The route begins here.
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