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Routes in The Dark Side

D.O.A. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Floating on Gravel T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Friday S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Groveler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Physical Graffiti S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Promiscuity Crack T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Safety Dance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Virgin, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wire Brush Hair Cut S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Cade Lloyd - 1983
Page Views: 97 total, 2/month
Shared By: Cory Harelson on Sep 18, 2012
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures. Details

Description

One of the several bolted cracks at the Dark Side. Excellent sustained finger and hand jams eventually take you to the interesting boulder-problem finish.

Location

Just left of the Wire Brush Haircut

Protection

This climb is well protected and takes gear to 2" plus a 2 bolt anchor. Alternatively you can clip the 4 bolts that are all next to excellent gear placements.

Photos

Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.10a
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.10a
Ordinarily I'd be prepared to admit that its just a bad size, but if the learned masters of Mountain Project call this 10b, but think Trimmed Bush is 10a, they're high. This is much easier than Trimmed Bush, and the sections with hard sizes are brief, with good faceholds nearby.
I think this is fair 10a, and Trimmed Bush is fair 10c, for a proficient crack climber.
Also, cams from #1 to #3 friend (e.g. .5 - 2 C4) will take the edge off any runout you may feel. Or doubles in that with maybe some nuts or small gear will let you skip all the bolts. Aug 8, 2015