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Reel Value
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 4
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Routes in The Vortex
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Gripcom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Reel Value S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Bill Boyle |
| Page Views: | 561 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Perin Blanchard on Aug 21, 2012 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
An unlovely-looking route with a chossy start and seemingly way too many bolts; Reel Value grows on you.
The line has got some stellar moves and feels remarkably exposed.
There are two roofs, a mostly-footless bulge, and three good rests. The technical crux is at the top and may prove a bit perplexing at first. The rightward trending first 20 feet or so is the chossiest; once above the initial roof the rock quality improves significantly (but it's still AF—the route needs more traffic to really clean up).
The line has got some stellar moves and feels remarkably exposed.
There are two roofs, a mostly-footless bulge, and three good rests. The technical crux is at the top and may prove a bit perplexing at first. The rightward trending first 20 feet or so is the chossiest; once above the initial roof the rock quality improves significantly (but it's still AF—the route needs more traffic to really clean up).
Protection
15 bolts, chain anchors (vertically offset a bit, so you may want a long draw and a short draw).
Fifteen bolts seems like a lot for the length of the route, but once you're on the route they make perfect sense.
When Boyle originally bolted the line there were only 9 bolts. A local climber, however, suffered a injurious ledge fall from the second bolt when a hold broke. Subsequently the route was retro-bolted to mostly eliminate the possibility of injury.
Fifteen bolts seems like a lot for the length of the route, but once you're on the route they make perfect sense.
When Boyle originally bolted the line there were only 9 bolts. A local climber, however, suffered a injurious ledge fall from the second bolt when a hold broke. Subsequently the route was retro-bolted to mostly eliminate the possibility of injury.
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