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Reel Value
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
Routes in The Vortex
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Gripcom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Reel Value S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 40.4496, -111.6779 |
| FA: | Bill Boyle |
| Page Views: | 758 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Perin Blanchard on Aug 21, 2012 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
An unlovely-looking route with a chossy start and seemingly way too many bolts; Reel Value grows on you.
The line has got some stellar moves and feels remarkably exposed.
There are two roofs, a mostly-footless bulge, and three good rests. The technical crux is at the top and may prove a bit perplexing at first. The rightward trending first 20 feet or so is the chossiest; once above the initial roof the rock quality improves significantly (but it's still AF—the route needs more traffic to really clean up).
Protection
15 bolts, chain anchors (vertically offset a bit, so you may want a long draw and a short draw).
Fifteen bolts seems like a lot for the length of the route, but once you're on the route they make perfect sense.
When Boyle originally bolted the line there were only 9 bolts. A local climber, however, suffered a injurious ledge fall from the second bolt when a hold broke. Subsequently the route was retro-bolted to mostly eliminate the possibility of injury.
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