Avg: 2.7 from 6 votes
Routes in The Vortex
|Gripcom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Reel Value S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft|
|Page Views:||66 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on Aug 21, 2012|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionAn unlovely-looking route with a chossy start and seemingly way too many bolts; Reel Value grows on you.
The line has got some stellar moves and feels remarkably exposed.
There are two roofs, a mostly-footless bulge, and three good rests. The technical crux is at the top and may prove a bit perplexing at first. The rightward trending first 20 feet or so is the chossiest; once above the initial roof the rock quality improves significantly (but it's still AF—the route needs more traffic to really clean up).
Protection15 bolts, chain anchors (vertically offset a bit, so you may want a long draw and a short draw).
Fifteen bolts seems like a lot for the length of the route, but once you're on the route they make perfect sense.
When Boyle originally bolted the line there were only 9 bolts. A local climber, however, suffered a injurious ledge fall from the second bolt when a hold broke. Subsequently the route was retro-bolted to mostly eliminate the possibility of injury.