Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Reel Value

5.11c, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: Bill Boyle
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork C… > Billboard Trail > Vortex
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

An unlovely-looking route with a chossy start and seemingly way too many bolts; Reel Value grows on you.

The line has got some stellar moves and feels remarkably exposed.

There are two roofs, a mostly-footless bulge, and three good rests. The technical crux is at the top and may prove a bit perplexing at first. The rightward trending first 20 feet or so is the chossiest; once above the initial roof the rock quality improves significantly (but it's still AF—the route needs more traffic to really clean up).

Location

The right-most line at The Vortex.

Protection

15 bolts, chain anchors (vertically offset a bit, so you may want a long draw and a short draw).

Fifteen bolts seems like a lot for the length of the route, but once you're on the route they make perfect sense.

When Boyle originally bolted the line there were only 9 bolts. A local climber, however, suffered a injurious ledge fall from the second bolt when a hold broke. Subsequently the route was retro-bolted to mostly eliminate the possibility of injury.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kip Henrie just past half-way.
[Hide Photo] Kip Henrie just past half-way.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
 
[Hide Comment] Long with some great moves. 3 great rests before cruxes. 3 cruxes to be exact and the last one the hardest. As I was on the last crux a big spider sat in a hold I needed, ug. I'm not a spider person. Sep 6, 2012