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Routes in The Ineditable Boulder

Ineditable, The V6-7 7A+
Tap Dancer V3 6A
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Matthew Smoot
Page Views: 89 total · 1/month
Shared By: MJ Smoot on Aug 5, 2012
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

You won't be able to power your way through this problem. The route will test your balance and requires some precise footwork.

Start in the middle of the wall with your hands matched on a thin, right-facing edge and a good low left foot in the small notch below. The line moves up towards the obvious right-sloping edge. From there, make your way over the bulge to the top.

Location

Tap Dancer climbs the Northeast face of a large, vertical boulder in the boulderfield at the Grotto Wall. Park in the big pull-out and follow a trail heading down canyon (veer left from the parking lot), then slightly south back toward the road (it's the biggest boulder in the area and hard to miss). The problem is on the opposite side of the boulder from the Ineditable Boulder problem.

Protection

This has a flat landing with one rock to deal with. Two pads and a spotter will offer sufficient protection.

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