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Routes in The Ineditable Boulder

Ineditable, The V6-7 7A+
Tap Dancer V3 6A
Type: Boulder, 40 ft
FA: John Sherman, 1991
Page Views: 3,695 total, 20/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jun 21, 2002
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is certainly one of Colorado's great boulder problems, both for its position on the flat face of a mammoth boulder and the purity of the line.

The Ineditable climbs the southwest face of a large, pointy boulder in the boulder field at the Grotto Wall. Park in the big pull-out and follow a trail heading down canyon, then slightly south back toward the road, to reach the Ineditable Boulder (it's the biggest boulder in the area and hard to miss). You'll pass a couple of other smaller boulder en route.

The problem itself climbs the high, grey face above the flat landing, and starts on the left with a hop to a good incut. Long reaches to crimpers take you to a good horizontal, then 5.9-5.7 type face and crack climbing get you to the summit.

An indirect start, Green Drake, begins to the right at the seam and moves left into the Ineditable at about 1/3 height. It is about V7.

Protection

As many pads as you can muster up.

Photos

skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
John Sherman made the first ascent in 1991, after climbing Via The Hot One (V9) at the Frisco boulders. He thought it was more difficult than that problem, calling it "V9 with a capitol R"! The name, The Ineditable, is a tounge in cheek reference to the editors at Climbing magazine. Sherman has been a long time contributor to the publication, and I can imagine some of his work has seen significant editing. I personally really like his brash style of writing. Jan 9, 2014
I'll be in Aspen this week, thinking of staying the weekend, anyone have an opinion on whether this is safe to work sans spotters with 2 pads? I plan on falling a lot before this is doable. Oct 8, 2012
tony1  
There are some great boulders on Independence Pass. "Felix" was a fun one on the way in there. Feb 13, 2011