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Routes in Small towers next to Echo and Aeolian
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I Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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O Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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U Tower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Y Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 38.68193, -109.75138 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 981 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Kiessel on Jul 4, 2012 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This small tower has many route options. Here is what we found.
We climbed a left facing corner system in the middle of the West side. Climb up past loose rock over some bulges, placing gear whenever possible. Climb on to the top and head 30' left to the true summit on sandy rock. I had a sit belay with a couple bad cams backing me up on the top. (It was dark, there might be a better anchor that I didn't find)
Protect your second as best as possible but a "what ever you do don't fall now" moment is likely.
We did a counterbalance simul rappel with a 60m rope to get off.
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