Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Chris Harmston - Summer 2002
Page Views: 455 total · 6/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Jun 25, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details


Realization? But of what? Maybe of the fact that the minimalistic bolting approach the developers used on the wall is perfect, leaving you to face climb a ways above awesome gear placement instead of clipping bolt after bolt?

I had my doubts about said approach when I could only spot 3 of the 5 bolts that supposedly protect the route. Fear not I thought, they're probably hiding over a bulge... Famous last words.

Scamper up an easy start to reach a laser-cut .75 crack disappearing behind a monster flake. A couple of ring locks and a bolt later, said flake will spit you out of the safety of its insides and onto the blank face. An exciting lieback past a second bolt (clip long) will deposit you in an alcove under a roof. Follow standard extraction procedures to get out of the hole and surmount the roof after clipping the 3rd bolt. Regroup, recover and come to terms with the fact that there will be no more bolts before casting off into the mellow upper face, placing gear in horizontals and loving life despite the occasional patch of lichen finding its way in your eyes.

If you've climbed 5.15a (who hasn't) this route will certainly remind you of its French Sharma-esque ├ęponyme - it's definetly on par when it comes to classic status.


Realization tackles the first of the huge flakes immediately left of the obvious Thin Thing. Look for 2 bolts on the face and a third one above the roof that caps said flake.

Lower off the anchors on the upper left corner of the face


3 bolts (not 5), nuts and a single set of cams from tiny to BD #1. I'm sure you could find a spot for bigger pieces. A second .75 is nice if you don't back-clean the first piece.


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