Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||Fred Henion, summer 2001|
|Page Views:||613 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Boissal . on Jun 25, 2012|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Mmmmmmm, if you read this after doing battle with the lieback of Realization you'll think twice before attempting the onsight. The flake is longer, steeper and more blunt-edged that its neighbor but sports the same number of bolts (2), the first one being out of reach for anyone shorter than Andre the Giant on a ladder with a stick clip...
A few holds on the face on both sides of the flake make the start go at mid-11. Expect bizarre insecure moves (slabbing, liebacking, OW technique) and don't botch it on the way to the 1st clip. Once established on top of the flake, wander up and left toward the mondo roof, placing small gear and getting pumped, the sustained nature of the climbing not exactly lending itself to fiddling with nuts (HA!). A rest can be had after the faint dihedral that leads to the corner of the roof. If you're feeling fresh, clip the last bolt and punch it on slightly easier ground, the spaced out gear and the pump keeping things exciting to the very end.
If you do Utahpia the rope will be up there. Choose between a proud and serious lead or a fun recon TR for a later attempt.