Avg: 3.6 from 288 votes
|Type:||Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Matthew Selman, 2012|
|Page Views:||33,135 total · 329/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Selman on Jun 22, 2012 with 1 Suggestions|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Pitch 1 (Vena Cava): Climb directly up the toe of Heart Rock through great jugs and big cobbles. Belay at a sloping ledge with two bolts. 30 meters, 5.5.
Pitch 2 (The Left Ventricle): A large cobble is visible above the belay ledge aim to the left of this feature. This pitch trends constantly left to land you at a two-bolt belay at the western end of the headwall. 25 meters, 5.6.
Pitch 3 (Tachycardia): The first bolt is slightly right of the belay, where a short bulge with great jugs forms the crux of the route. Above here, traverse left to find a great exposed line up the headwall. After a blank sandstone section near the top, bypass a two-bolt belay in a small pod. From here, two options exist: the recommended route is to scramble across and straight up a sandstone slab (1 bolt protects the slab) to a two-bolt belay at the top of the prow (5.easy); one may also follow three bolts to the rappel station on the left. 30 meters, 5.7.Sign the register at the summit!
Rappel 1, 80': If you are at the summit register/ammo can with the route at your back, the new anchors are at your left (north), on top of a small rise in the rock just beyond the crack/tree. Scramble toward the anchors and step across a small cleft at the narrowest and easiest spot. The anchors are visible once you cross this small cleft. If you are not at a set of shiny chains with 1/2" bolts (and a third backup bolt) then you are in the wrong spot. Rappel straight west from here. The rappel route is pretty much a straight line down the west face from here. Start the rappel down a slab, then transition to steeper rock. Stay close to the crack/gully/cleft on your left. When you reach the sandstone band, move to it's terminus a little to your left. A 3-bolt anchor station is on the wall to your left at a good stance, just before the wall drops off into the narrows.
Rappel 2, 90': Rappel from the three shiny 1/2" bolts at the sandstone band. The initial 20' of the rappel is down a short vertical section, then the wall steepens and you are in free-hanging space. Watch below and you will see the anchors for the next rappel on the wall OPPOSITE the wall you are rappelling from. Yes - you cross the narrows from one wall to the other on this rappel. The third rappel is also from two shiny 1/2 bolts and chains and a backup bolt.
Rappel 3, 80': Rappel straight down into the narrow bottom between the two formation, then move left down the ramp to the ground