5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.6 from 402 votes
|Type:||Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Matthew Selman, 2012|
|Page Views:||42,473 total · 319/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Selman on Jun 22, 2012 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C|
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Tachycardia ascends the most obvious weaknesses in the south face and headwall of Heart Rock. With the brief exception of the crux sequence, it stays on vertical and less-than vertical terrain for its entirety. The route is a multi-pitch adventure offering some of the most breathtaking exposure that can be had for the grade in Maple.
Pitch 1 (Vena Cava): Climb directly up the toe of Heart Rock through great jugs and big cobbles. Belay at a sloping ledge with two bolts. 30 meters, 5.5.
Pitch 2 (The Left Ventricle): A large cobble is visible above the belay ledge, aim to the left of this feature. This pitch trends constantly left to land you at the left belay of two separate two-bolt belays at the western end of the headwall. 25 meters, 5.6.
Pitch 3 (Tachycardia): The first bolt is slightly right of the belay, where a short bulge with great jugs forms the crux of the route. Above here, traverse left to find a great exposed line up the headwall. After a blank sandstone section near the top, bypass a two-bolt belay in a small pod. From here, two options exist: the recommended route is to scramble across and straight up a sandstone slab (1 bolt protects the slab) to a two-bolt belay at the top of the prow (5.easy); one may also follow three bolts to the rappel station on the left. 30 meters, 5.7. Sign the register at the summit!
PLEASE READ CAREFULLY: In an effort to address the ongoing rescues on this formation, the descent has been completely re-engineered. Please spread the word. I have added photos that should help.
***A core reason for the rescues and new descent/rappel route is stuck ropes due to friction when climbers rappel down the climbing route.
Rappel 1, 80': If you are at the summit register/ammo can with the route at your back, the new anchors are at your left (north) about 30 feet on the rock separated by a crack from the one you are standing on. Scramble toward the crack and step across at the narrowest and easiest spot. The anchors are visible once you cross this small cleft. If you are not at a set of shiny chains with 1/2" bolts (and a third backup bolt) then you are in the wrong spot. Rappel with a lean towards your left, staying close to the crack/gully/cleft on your left and practically through it for the most direct rappel to the next anchors. They will be at the leftmost side of a white sandstone band that forms somewhat of a ledge.
Rappel 2, 90': Rappel from the three shiny 1/2" bolts at the sandstone band. The initial 20' of the rappel is down a short vertical section, then the wall steepens and you are in free-hanging space. Watch below and you'll see the anchors for the next rappel on the wall OPPOSITE the wall you are rappelling from. Yes - you cross the narrows from one wall to the other on this rappel. The third rappel is also from two shiny 1/2 bolts and chains and a backup bolt.
Rappel 3, 80': Rappel straight down into the narrow bottom between the two formation, then move left down the ramp to the ground