Avg: 3.7 from 115 votes
Routes in Heart Rock
|Tachycardia S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Matthew Selman, 2012|
|Page Views:||19,155 total, 290/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Selman on Jun 22, 2012|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
This area is located on private property. Details
DescriptionTachycardia ascends the most obvious weaknesses in the south face and headwall of Heart Rock. With the brief exception of the crux sequence, it stays on vertical and less-than vertical terrain for its entirety. The route is a multi-pitch adventure offering some of the most breathtaking exposure that can be had for the grade in Maple.
Pitch 1 (Vena Cava): Climb directly up the toe of Heart Rock through great jugs and big cobbles. Belay at a sloping ledge with two bolts. 30 meters, 5.5.
Pitch 2 (The Left Ventricle): A large cobble is visible above the belay ledgeaim to the left of this feature. This pitch trends constantly left to land you at a two-bolt belay at the western end of the headwall. 25 meters, 5.6.
Pitch 3 (Tachycardia): The first bolt is slightly right of the belay, where a short bulge with great jugs forms the crux of the route. Above here, traverse left to find a great exposed line up the headwall. After a blank sandstone section near the top, bypass a two-bolt belay in a small pod. From here, two options exist: the recommended route is to scramble across and straight up a sandstone slab (1 bolt protects the slab) to a two-bolt belay at the top of the prow (5.easy); one may also follow three bolts to the rappel station on the left. 30 meters, 5.7.
Sign the register at the summit!
Descent: If you are standing at the summit, the rappel station is about 25 feet away from you to the west, out of sight on a small prow. Scramble across the gap to reach these anchors--do not rappel from the summit proper. Rappel to the anchors atop the second pitch (30 meters). From here it is possible to make a single 30-meter rappel to the ground (rappel to the west, into the gully between Heart Rock and Changing the Stripes). Walking off is also an option, though not recommended.