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Routes in Heart Rock

Tachycardia S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Matthew Selman, 2012
Page Views: 19,155 total, 290/month
Shared By: Matt Selman on Jun 22, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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This area is located on private property. Details

Description

Tachycardia ascends the most obvious weaknesses in the south face and headwall of Heart Rock. With the brief exception of the crux sequence, it stays on vertical and less-than vertical terrain for its entirety. The route is a multi-pitch adventure offering some of the most breathtaking exposure that can be had for the grade in Maple.

Pitch 1 (Vena Cava): Climb directly up the toe of Heart Rock through great jugs and big cobbles. Belay at a sloping ledge with two bolts. 30 meters, 5.5.

Pitch 2 (The Left Ventricle): A large cobble is visible above the belay ledge┬ľaim to the left of this feature. This pitch trends constantly left to land you at a two-bolt belay at the western end of the headwall. 25 meters, 5.6.

Pitch 3 (Tachycardia): The first bolt is slightly right of the belay, where a short bulge with great jugs forms the crux of the route. Above here, traverse left to find a great exposed line up the headwall. After a blank sandstone section near the top, bypass a two-bolt belay in a small pod. From here, two options exist: the recommended route is to scramble across and straight up a sandstone slab (1 bolt protects the slab) to a two-bolt belay at the top of the prow (5.easy); one may also follow three bolts to the rappel station on the left. 30 meters, 5.7.

Sign the register at the summit!

Descent: If you are standing at the summit, the rappel station is about 25 feet away from you to the west, out of sight on a small prow. Scramble across the gap to reach these anchors--do not rappel from the summit proper. Rappel to the anchors atop the second pitch (30 meters). From here it is possible to make a single 30-meter rappel to the ground (rappel to the west, into the gully between Heart Rock and Changing the Stripes). Walking off is also an option, though not recommended.

Location

Follow the approach directions in the Heart Rock Area description.

Protection

12 quickdraws, belay station gear, 60 meter rope (or longer). As with all Maple Canyon multi-pitch routes, please wear a helmet. These routes see far less traffic than the canyon's single-pitch routes and rockfall is therefore a far greater hazard.
BE CAREFUL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Horrible descent description in the route description. Comments are much better. VERY easy to get confused. Ended up hanging in space today for a bit. THANK GOD I could swing/traverse over to the top of the second pitch anchors. The description makes it sound like you should rapell over the edge there. WRONG. Rapell back down to the bottom of the third pitch. BE CAREFUL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jul 6, 2017
Kayt  
I am a member of the local Search and Rescue team. Last summer we had two rescues on Heart Rock. Both parties were rappelling and would have self-rescued if they were prepared to ascend their ropes. (Great thing to learn!) Be careful where you throw your rope here: one had the end-knot caught in a crack and the other threw the rope down the wrong (higher) side of the lowest rappel.

Be safe out there and have fun! Jun 2, 2017
John Ward
  5.7
John Ward  
  5.7
Such a fun route! I will definitely be repeating this one if in the area again. A few things though.
There are ALOT of wasps/hornets flying around for pretty much the entire route and we did this in mid March, I imagine it only gets worse in the summer.
The route traverses to the left the entire second pitch and the first half of the third.
I climbed past the anchors at the top of P3, clipping the 3? bolts to the summit register where there is an anchor. Plenty of rope with a 70 and rope drag was surprisingly not bad when doing this.
For our descent we used the rap anchor, which was a bit hard to find (it's on the very edge of the next prow uphill, be careful getting out to it) down to the top of P2 and then from there raped down into the canyon to skiers right.
The crux, as others have stated is the start of P3. And it's a bit terrifying, holds are great but the bolt is in an awkward position and for a short guy like me I was very relived when I clipped the first bolt. Apr 5, 2017
Ryan Murphy
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Ryan Murphy   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Went with a party of three and brought up two 70 meters. We rapped off the true summit all the way back to the start of pitch 1! Super overhanging and exposed. Backed up the 2 older bolts with a sling connecting a newer bolt a few feet away. Oct 3, 2016
Laronicus Lehmanold
Salt Lake, UT
Laronicus Lehmanold   Salt Lake, UT
tachycardia: an abnormally rapid heart rate. Yeah, those wasps flying everywhere really got the heart pumping! Be careful which recesses/negative space you stick your hand into. Those little buggers are designed to kill! Oct 3, 2016
Carole R  
 
BEWARE OF GETTING YOUR ROPE STUCK. The cobblestone is really cobbley, and after our first rappel down to the belay, we went to pull the rope and it had gotten pinched between two cobblestones and wouldn't pull. My partner prussiked up to see what was wrong. When he got there, the rope looked fine, and we definitely used the right rap station.

He moved our rope to the lower (optional belay station below top out) and threaded the rope through one bolt and extended the other bolt with a personal and a biner to prevent rope drag. He rapped down and at the belay, we tried to pull the rope again. It pulled part of the way but got stuck again for some reason. We made an anchor at our belay station and put the single strand of our stuck rope through it. We rapped down on one strand and hit the ground. (70m rope)

We went back to our car and climbed the whole thing again from the bottom to the top, carefully laid the rope in least frictioney places as we rappelling, and were able to successfully reach the ground.

This was in the brain-melting afternoon bakefest, and it took from 8am-5pm. Not fun. Careful where you lay your rope for rappel, lower off the lower bolts instead of the rap rings, and think of extending one bolt with a sling and biner. Fun climb but be sure you have the time to get out of a fiasco. Jul 20, 2016
Fantastic! Well-bolted, recommended rap (~20M west of the summit register to top of P2, then down into the gully) worked swell. Crux more fun straight through but feels a little safer up around to the right. Reminded me of High Exposure at the Gunks! Jun 19, 2016
mikeehale
  5.8
mikeehale  
  5.8
RAPPEL INFO

Below is a picture of the Rap Anchors in relation to the Ammo Can on the summit.

Oct 13, 2015
Very nice, just to point out that the summit book register is already pretty filled up...it is a nice little tradition that has been installed up there and fun reading... Let us hope that a Volume Two is added and the original stays put for future reads:)... Really an improbable and fun climb on par w Great Chasm... Thanks. Sep 30, 2015
Ryan-T
Edgewater, CO
  5.7+
Ryan-T   Edgewater, CO
  5.7+
Wow! What an awesome route! Excellent route for improving at multi-pitch with a new leader. The exposure on the third pitch is mind blowing for the grade. The climbing is really good, and the bolts get nice and tight, when you start working over the void. I thought the crux was pulling out of the second belay stance.

I highly recommend this route to anyone! Definitely bring a helmet, while the vertical rock is solid, there is a lot of loose stuff on the top that could be kicked off. Thanks for these sweet moderate multi-pitch routes! Sep 25, 2015
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
This is a great little route. Don't miss it!!
The beta for this route is a little confusing: I'll try and clear up a few things.
1) Approach: Park at the campsite/pullout directly below the formation. Cross the stream east(down canyon) of the campsite and enter the drainage in front of you. Obvious geo-cache box is sitting in the bottom of the drainage under a rock wall soon after you leave the creek-bed. Continue up drainage. When you reach a very steep slope of dirt, there are a few cairns on your left. Don't go up the steep dirt slope! Follow the cairns up and left into the woods and you will come to the base of the climb in a few minutes. Otherwise, you will have to hike several minutes higher and then bushwack back down the base of the wall to get to the route.
2) The route: It's easy to link P1-P2. From here, I recommend linking P3-P4. You can go all the way to the summit and skip the 3rd set of chains. There are only 2 bolts in the last pitch, but most people probably want to be roped up for them. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor next to the summit register. There is increased rope drag by combining the last pitches but, even without extending my draws, it wasn't that bad.
3) The rap: Do not use the rusty, old chains on the summit. If you are sitting at the summit register, the rap anchors you want are only a few feet away, but they are across the large gap to your west that you just crossed to come up the slab. Do yourself a favor; walk up the ridge, past the tree, then step across the gap to your left and walk back down to the rap anchor. Rap from here to the anchors of pitch #2. Rap again into the gully on your left and walk on a trail back to the base of the climb. Jun 15, 2015
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
 
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
 
WHAT A THRILL!
Last pitch is easily one of the best in all of Maple Canyon.

For P3, we used the belay station just above the sandstone section on the headwall to bring up the seconding climber(as opposed to climbing all the way to the summit and belaying from up there). It helped reduce the rope drag and made communication a little easier, then you just need to make a quick scramble up to the summit.

We used a 60m rope and did the incredible rappel down the front of the formation from the suggested rap station(little rope drag and it didn't snag on anything). From the anchors at the bottom of P3, we then made a rappel left, down into the gully.

Will be doing this one again, and again, and again.... Sep 6, 2014
Lindsey Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Lindsey Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The 3rd pitch and view from the top make this route great. And we had it all to ourselves! I'd say the crux is starting the 3rd pitch. When you get to the last anchors, there is a bolt a little ways above you that leads to the rap station. You can also see a bolt a bit to your right, where you can scramble over to the summit/ammo can. We rapped from the recommended rap chains, which took us to the top of the second pitch. Didn't see any other rap rings, so we rapped from there into the gully (and into some trees, geh). Jun 3, 2014
Matt Reeves
Orem Ut
 
Matt Reeves   Orem Ut
 
We sent it with a team of 3 so we had 2 60 M ropes, with the 2 of them tied together it was long enough to rap off the true summit. We came straight over the point at the most overhung and did not touch the rock again until the top of pitch one. I recommend it but, YOU MUST HAVE AT LEAST 100 M OF ROPE. PS be careful this rap has not been cleaned and it easy to knock rocks down on the people below you. May 7, 2014
Alex Marsden
Utah
  5.8
Alex Marsden   Utah
  5.8
We enjoyed it a ton. The name is very fitting for the third pitch. On the rap off we almost got our rope stuck so be careful on the rap. Be sure to do the last short pitch and sign the book in the ammo case. It explains where to rap from. Apr 1, 2014
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.8
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.8
Austin I believe those are the proper rap chains. If you are looking at the bolts for summit proper, the proper belay chains are directly behind you across the small gulley (which requires a scramble to get to). We also noticed some old rap chains to the right of summit proper, but decided to not use them (seeing as how we only had a 60m rope). Amazing climb, and exposed as hell! Sep 10, 2013
Austin Farnworth
mapleton utah
  5.8+
Austin Farnworth   mapleton utah
  5.8+
Definitely my favorite multi pitch in maple! The person that bolted this is a genius! Maybe I'm blind or something but I couldn't find the rap anchors so we rapped down the route across the gully Jul 18, 2013
Jordy Hanson  
 
So exposed! My father pulled a huge rock on the third pitch and went for a ride! I don't love the scramble from summit proper to the rappel chains (though not enough to drop from 4 to 3 stars). Other than that I loved it! I used my extra quick. May 28, 2013
Jimmymac222
South Jordan, UT
 
Jimmymac222   South Jordan, UT
 
This route will soon become a Maple classic. Two mellow approach pitches which are fun and serve as a nice warm up. The third and final pitch has incredible exposure, fun moves and is well bolted. Great line on an impressive feature. Do this route now! May 5, 2013
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
 
Jason Stevens   Ephraim, UT
 
I cant believe you stole this route from me! That'll teach me to eye a route for a decade and assume no one else is looking at it. Well done, Selman, well done. Feb 8, 2013
Manilius  
 
A highly improbable moderate for such an imposing formation. The first two pitches are casual and enjoyable. The last pitch is a bit terrifying, though well protected; once you move out of the belay cave the exposure is rattling, but moderate moves are there if'n you can keep it together. Again, a classic of a route for its ability to find a 5.8 line up Heart Rock. Dec 3, 2012