Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Matthew Selman, 2012
Page Views: 26,677 total · 314/month
Shared By: Matt Selman on Jun 22, 2012 with improvements by Jason Stevens
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: This area is located on private property. Details

Ascent

Tachycardia ascends the most obvious weaknesses in the south face and headwall of Heart Rock. With the brief exception of the crux sequence, it stays on vertical and less-than vertical terrain for its entirety. The route is a multi-pitch adventure offering some of the most breathtaking exposure that can be had for the grade in Maple.

Pitch 1 (Vena Cava): Climb directly up the toe of Heart Rock through great jugs and big cobbles. Belay at a sloping ledge with two bolts. 30 meters, 5.5.

Pitch 2 (The Left Ventricle): A large cobble is visible above the belay ledge aim to the left of this feature. This pitch trends constantly left to land you at a two-bolt belay at the western end of the headwall. 25 meters, 5.6.

Pitch 3 (Tachycardia): The first bolt is slightly right of the belay, where a short bulge with great jugs forms the crux of the route. Above here, traverse left to find a great exposed line up the headwall. After a blank sandstone section near the top, bypass a two-bolt belay in a small pod. From here, two options exist: the recommended route is to scramble across and straight up a sandstone slab (1 bolt protects the slab) to a two-bolt belay at the top of the prow (5.easy); one may also follow three bolts to the rappel station on the left. 30 meters, 5.7.Sign the register at the summit!

Descent

PLEASE READ CAREFULLY: In an effort to address the ongoing rescues on this formation, the descent has been completely re-engineered. Please spread the word. I have added photos that should help.

Rappel 1, 80': If you are at the summit register/ammo can with the route at your back, the new anchors are at your left (north), on top of a small rise in the rock just beyond the crack/tree. Scramble toward the anchors and step across a small cleft at the narrowest and easiest spot. The anchors are visible once you cross this small cleft. If you are not at a set of shiny chains with 1/2" bolts (and a third backup bolt) then you are in the wrong spot. Rappel straight west from here. The rappel route is pretty much a straight line down the west face from here. Start the rappel down a slab, then transition to steeper rock. Stay close to the crack/gully/cleft on your left. When you reach the sandstone band, move to it's terminus a little to your left. A 3-bolt anchor station is on the wall to your left at a good stance, just before the wall drops off into the narrows.

Rappel 2, 90': Rappel from the three shiny 1/2" bolts at the sandstone band. The initial 20' of the rappel is down a short vertical section, then the wall steepens and you are in free-hanging space. Watch below and you will see the anchors for the next rappel on the wall OPPOSITE the wall you are rappelling from. Yes - you cross the narrows from one wall to the other on this rappel. The third rappel is also from two shiny 1/2 bolts and chains and a backup bolt.

Rappel 3, 80': Rappel straight down into the narrow bottom between the two formation, then move left down the ramp to the ground

Location

Follow the approach directions in the Heart Rock Area description.

Protection

12 quickdraws, belay station gear, 60 meter rope (or longer). As with all Maple Canyon multi-pitch routes, please wear a helmet. These routes see far less traffic than the canyon's single-pitch routes and rockfall is therefore a far greater hazard.

Photos