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Heart Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Heart Rock

Tachycardia S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Elevation:	6,593 ft	2,010 m
GPS:	39.5561, -111.6708 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	40,268 total · 257/month
Shared By:	Matt Selman on Jun 22, 2012 · Updates
Admins:	Jim Clarke, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: This area is located on private property. Details

Access Issue: 2025 ACCESS ALERT!: Nesting Raptors - GOLDEN EAGLE Avoidance Areas. Details

Access Alert: 2024 GOLDEN EAGLE AVOIDANCE AREA

-2024 Golden Eagle Avoidance Areas: The Early Bird Crag, The Frontera, The Undertaker Wall, The Sushi Bar, The Great Chasm

Each spring Golden Eagles return to Maple Canyon for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The United States Forest Service (USFS) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

Description

Heart Rock is the massive and iconic arete that can be seen on the north side of the canyon near where the rock turns from sandstone to conglomerate. It can be easily recognized by the heart shape of the upper arete. It stands 300 feet tall from the toe of the lower arete to the summit.

In the heyday of Maple's youth, when the Provo hardmen were on the prowl for new routes, the legendary Tim Hannig drilled a chain anchor atop the Heart's prow and rappelled down the overhang to scope what would certainly have been the proudest, airiest, most badass line in Maple-then or now. The details of his scouting mission are patchy, but we know that for whatever reason Hannig decided to bail. Jason Stevens and perhaps a few others rapped down and scouted various lines on the formation but its first ascent by a technical route did not come until 2012, with Tachycardia.

Getting There

Park at the obvious pullout/camping spot directly below Heart Rock (200 yards below Anti-Gravity Rock). Cross the streambed and cut immediately right, skirting a large boulder, until you come to a drainage. There is an ammo can containing a geocache here, and if you find this cache you know youre in the right spot. Work up this drainage, east of Heart Rock, until you are nearly level with the base of the Rocks toe. Bushwhack up 50 yards or so until you are at the base.