Mountain Project Logo

Routes in BFD Rock

NBD T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smell, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
WTF T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tedd Thompson
Page Views: 414 total, 6/month
Shared By: benjaminleaton Eaton on Jun 12, 2012
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a great and tough route that is overhanging and full of sharp crimps. Scramble to the top of the large ledge with your belayer to start the route. Stick-clipping the first bolt would be a smart idea.

The first two bolts are accessed by pulling on small crimps, making V5 moves. Large edges and small jugs help you run it out to the third both that is very awkward to clip because of the nasty small roof you have to fiddle with. Continue using sharp edges to pass more bolts, using good footwork. After clipping the last bolt, head left on two positive, but small, crimpers to slap the sloppers to top out. Once you are on top of the route, traverse back right to clip the anchors.

Location

West side of BFD Rock. Just next to Campsite 3.

Protection

7 bolts and 2 chain anchors.

Photos

Eric Schnepel
Portland
 
Eric Schnepel   Portland
 
This is a fantastic route! I fear it is not climbed as much as is warranted by its quality due to its solitary location. The only reason I was drawn in was because of it's proximity to our campsite (#2). The low boulder problem is hard and fun, and the climbing above is sustained, powerful, and enjoyable. That said, after sending it, I have a few updates that I'd like to post as I found a number of things to be contrary to the route description above.

For one, I believe a stronger emphasis should be made on the fact that you will likely hit the ground if you blow it approaching the third bolt (unless your belayer pulls some fancy gritstone maneuver and jumps off the belay ledge, that is). Luckily, contrary to the description above, I did not find the clip to be awkward or strenuous in the least. There is a nice sidepull jug directly next to the bolt and great feet. As long as nothing breaks, it shouldn't be a problem.

Also, I'm not sure about going left after the last bolt... It may be possible, but you'd basically have to climb into a gritty hueco filled with birds nests. I found it preferable to trend just a hair right at the last bolt and onto the white slab. The edges are small but positive, and the climbing is no harder than 11-. This method led me nicely to the lip of the rock and allowed me to clip the anchors without having to top out and walk over. This method did not involve any shenanigans and seemed like the logical line.

Tallyho! Sep 17, 2016
bheller
SL UT
  5.12c
bheller   SL UT
  5.12c
F.A. Tedd Thompson

There used to be a pit toilet near the base of this route- the smell. Sep 24, 2012