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Routes in BFD Rock

NBD T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smell, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
WTF T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Brian Cabe & LeAnn Jones August 2011
Page Views: 77 total, 1/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Nov 14, 2011
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

An open chimney leads to a steep face with just enough features and protection to keep it from being too spicy.

Climb up the open slot, chimney up and step left working the nice handholds. Follow weaknesses and protection options slanting slightly left until possible to go straight up to short roof (horizontal crack for gear). Pull roof, and, build belay anchor on top.

Location

In the middle of the East Face of BFD Rock is a large, open chimney. This route climbs the face just left of the chimney/wide groove.

Take two ropes and simul rappel to get off?

Possible to rappel from the anchor on "the Smell" but take care as its very steep, exposed and the anchor is a dubious, old ('87 vintage) washer stack).

Protection

Standard rack. Stoppers and small cams (double set of 00 - 2 TCU's or equivalent) useful.

No fixed gear or anchor.

Photos

Drederek
  4th PG13
Drederek  
  4th PG13
Yeah, I thought the mantle over the top was solid V0! Sep 20, 2014
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
Wow...you thought the route had a V0 move on it? I didn't find it that hard. Maybe you went the hard way... Cheers! Sep 17, 2014
Drederek
  4th PG13
Drederek  
  4th PG13
60 feet of fourth class to a V0 mantle move does not make a 5.8, sorry. Sep 17, 2014