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Routes in Twin Crags

A Fine Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
By Fair Means T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dangerous Dan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Dihedral, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Earth Girls Are Easy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Garden Party T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ghost, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Jerks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Made Of Silk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nick's Route TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nipples That Cut Glass T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pony Climb T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tahoe Bolt Murder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Bull Rider T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dangerous Dan Betwainer, 1989
Page Views: 179 total, 3/month
Shared By: Lurker on Apr 19, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

One of the better offerings at Twin Crags. A little heads up on lead, as the crux is ~25 feet off the ground, with only a couple small pieces in. Sustained 5.10 climbing the whole way.

Location

Midway between the cave and the right end of the crag; just right of a 4 bolt 5.12.

Protection

Gear to 2", rap rings at anchors. I protected the crux with a purple TCU and a #4 BD stopper.

Photos

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kendallt
Tahoe
kendallt   Tahoe
A non-obvious (to me) 0.5 X4 placement was reassuring at the crux. I don't think an equivalent C4 would fit. The only other gear I could find is very small (#00 C3, #1 wallnut)

Next time I would bring my micro nuts. Fun route. Aug 7, 2017