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Routes in Holey Moley Wall

Everybody Bleeds S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Old School Hardman S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ride the Wave S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rollercoaster S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Tim Toula 2006 FFA: Peter Vintoniv, 26 March 2012
Page Views: 752 total · 10/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Mar 29, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

To the left of Holey Moley, the original route on the wall, are two bolted steep lines. they share the same start and then diverge like a "Y". The left line finishes up a steep spur and is "Rollercoaster". The crux is apparently about 2/3 of the way up on this left neighbor of Old School Hardman. The rock on this wall is excellent and the grading needs consensus to be more definitive. Tim Toula strongly felt that both of these routes were as hard as 5.13d!

Location

Rappel the route. Unlike as noted in the new guidebook, these routes have separate anchors. They do not converge and share anchors as the guidebook suggests. Rollercoaster may need chain added to replace the slings that are in place at the time of this writing.

Protection

QDs for about 10 bolts.

Photos

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Scaligiuri Caligiuri  
  5.13a
Loved climbing this route, beautiful movement, the rock is just truly amazing in this area. You should do this route. Took me a few days to figure out how I was going to do the crux being a bit shorter then Jonathan and decided to take 13a :). May 15, 2013
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
  5.12d
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
  5.12d
A freakin great route! Interesting movement, bullet rock, nice long crux. Do this route! Either hard 12d or soft 13a, you choose. Apr 2, 2013
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Is this the route on the left arete with the slabby -ish start? Hard to say from the description, which indicates this and OSHM share part of the route. However there's an independant line on the left (not the .11 that's around the corner) and it doesn't seem like there's enough space on the headwall for three independant lines. Apr 2, 2012
Oh, 18 meters!

I thought maybe this was to be some April 1 joke or something. Seriously, these routes sounds real cool. Thanks for all the info. Gotta get me out to Ibex one day. Apr 1, 2012
Thanks Crusher for pointing out the discrepancy. It is actually longer than 18m. I am so poor at judging pitch lengths! Apr 1, 2012
Ten bolts in 18 feet? Outstanding! Mar 31, 2012

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