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Rollercoaster

5.12d, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
FA: Tim Toula 2006 FFA: Peter Vintoniv, 26 March 2012
Utah > W Desert > Confusion Range > Ibex > S Corridor > Holey Moley Wall

Description

To the left of Holey Moley, the original route on the wall, are two bolted steep lines. they share the same start and then diverge like a "Y". The left line finishes up a steep spur and is "Rollercoaster". The crux is apparently about 2/3 of the way up on this left neighbor of Old School Hardman. The rock on this wall is excellent and the grading needs consensus to be more definitive. Tim Toula strongly felt that both of these routes were as hard as 5.13d!

Location

Rappel the route. Unlike as noted in the new guidebook, these routes have separate anchors. They do not converge and share anchors as the guidebook suggests. Rollercoaster may need chain added to replace the slings that are in place at the time of this writing.

Protection

QDs for about 10 bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

James Garrett
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Thanks Crusher for pointing out the discrepancy. It is actually longer than 18m. I am so poor at judging pitch lengths! Apr 1, 2012
[Hide Comment] Oh, 18 meters!

I thought maybe this was to be some April 1 joke or something. Seriously, these routes sounds real cool. Thanks for all the info. Gotta get me out to Ibex one day. Apr 1, 2012
steve edwards
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] Is this the route on the left arete with the slabby -ish start? Hard to say from the description, which indicates this and OSHM share part of the route. However there's an independant line on the left (not the .11 that's around the corner) and it doesn't seem like there's enough space on the headwall for three independant lines. Apr 2, 2012
Jonathan Siegrist
Las Vegas
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] A freakin great route! Interesting movement, bullet rock, nice long crux. Do this route! Either hard 12d or soft 13a, you choose. Apr 2, 2013
Scaligiuri Caligiuri
Bend, OR
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Loved climbing this route, beautiful movement, the rock is just truly amazing in this area. You should do this route. Took me a few days to figure out how I was going to do the crux being a bit shorter then Jonathan and decided to take 13a :). May 15, 2013