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Routes in Main Wall

Gecko Twins S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Icarus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Into the Eye of the Son S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
King of Pain TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Space Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trying to go straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
We Refuse to Grow Old and/or Up S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
You Must Have Wings S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: M. Veillon
Page Views: 3,160 total · 43/month
Shared By: Ben May on Jan 16, 2012
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This climb has it all. It starts with good feet and small sloping crimpers and works up and left into great finger locks in a diagonal crack but the feet disappear. Continue up onto thin face climbing with really athletic high-steps to the roof. Continue past roof to easier climbing, up and right to rap anchor.

Location

start on the diagonal crack that jets up and left under the roof on the main wall

Protection

bolts, rap anchor

Photos

Carl M  
The first bolt in this climb has ripped off and needs to be replaced. Mar 13, 2017
Arin Earl  
 
Great climb, wish it was more than just the one pitch.

Yeah the bolts are a downer. Just don't use them. Climbing around San Diego, I see a ton of bolts right next to good pro. Jul 8, 2015
Ben May
San Diego, CA
 
Ben May   San Diego, CA
 
I just want to state, for the record, that I am not responsible for the bolts added to this route. I agree in full that bolts should not go where natural protection can be used. This is a great climb, none the less. May 7, 2012
AlexK
 
AlexK  
 
Thanks Ben for taking us here! This is a great climb that starts on good crimps and delicate feet and moves through balance moves to the crux over a roof. From there it's a few small crimps to get to an easy finish and the anchors.

I definitely penciled this into the topo in my SD climbing guide book. Jan 19, 2012
Ben May
San Diego, CA
 
Ben May   San Diego, CA
 
I think what I have depicted here is a variation of what's in the Kennedy/Hubbard guide... which states that the climb actually starts on the face underneath the finger crack. That may be a harder option but I can assure you that the crack is a must-do. Jan 16, 2012

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