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Routes in Main Wall

Gecko Twins S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Icarus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Into the Eye of the Son S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
King of Pain TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Space Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trying to go straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
We Refuse to Grow Old and/or Up S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
You Must Have Wings S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: (unknown)
Page Views: 1,752 total · 21/month
Shared By: Ben May on Jan 16, 2012
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

An interesting climb that takes you on a tour of the main wall. It traverses up and left on a shelf with a thin finger crack. The shelf turns into a roof about half way up and the gear is a bit harder to place.

Location

It starts directly underneath the left side of the roof on the ramp and behind the oak tree. The name says it all.

Protection

Pro to #3 and bolts, rap anchor

Photos

Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.8
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.8
A pretty good route! Pro is pretty good on this route. We found good nut placements up higher just before getting to the piton (the crux).

Mar 5, 2012
BE FOREWARNED... avoid what happened to me today following my partner. Right after pulling the roof, and then traversing towards the right, my foot slipped off, and unfortunately for me the next bit of pro, was the anchor my partner used that was 30-40 feet almost directly to the right, so I took a glorious follow pendulum whip, dropping like a sack of potatoes straight down into the ramp under the roof and, then swinging across the face and through the tree. I cracked my helmet through, and I'm bruised and scraped all over but fortunately I don't seem to have any major issues. Phew. I didn't inspect the whole area above the roof but my partner said there wasn't an anchor or a place to build a natural anchor. Seems like sorta a bs to call something a route without actually having an anchor. Nov 18, 2017
Matthew Lee
San Diego, CA
Matthew Lee   San Diego, CA
amockalypsenow, the leader is supposed to protect the follower on a traverse by placing gear to avoid a pendulum. Dec 3, 2017
Friggen Ants. Piss Ants in the crack that crawl all over your arm. Makes it even more challenging!! Lol Jun 12, 2018

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