Elevation: 3,800 ft
GPS: 32.844, -116.635 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 88,634 total · 688/month
Shared By: Ben May on Nov 21, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

Description

As per "San Diego Climbing Guide" by Dave Kennedy with Chris Hubbard...

Plainly visible from I-8 just west of the Hwy. 79 turn-off, Descanso has a multitude of routes, nearly all put up by Martin Veillon and his son Peter.
1/4" bolts placed in ground-up style here may not have hangers (especially the first one or two), and some routes are runout. Take some keyhole hangers, small wired nuts or other such devices to tie off these studs. Many routes require gear. The true classic here is Into the Eye of the Son (11+). Many more routes than those given here have been established on the neighboring formations.

Mainly sport
Quality Granite
No fee required

Descanso Wall, for the size, packs quite a punch. On the East side of the wall there is a great section for those practicing trad or those brave enough to free solo. Going West from here you have a few sport routes with excellent steepness and overhung at the beginning. These routes are about 110-120 feet but can give you a pump with micro crimpers, slopers/friction and great smearing. Further west is Icarus 5.11a in the dihedral. And, basically, the further West you go, the harder the climb (i.e. the cave section with chain draws?)

Chow/Beer:
If there's one other thing that most all climbers have in common, it's a frosty local brew and some well-earned wholesome food. Therefore, I confidently suggest The Alpine Beer Company.

Getting There


*From I-8 & the 805, drive about 33 miles East on the I-8 (past Alpine) to Exit 40 CA 79-N/Japatule Valley Rd toward Julian.
*Take Exit 40/Hwy-79 and turn left (North).*Drive 0.8 of a mile to Wildwood Glen Ln.
*Turn Left (West) on Wildwood Glen Ln and park at the Helo pad/turn around/USFS gate.
*Don't forget your water.
*From the Helo pad, the gate is to the left and the trailhead is to the right, marked by a white metal post with a black tip ... 20 mins.
*Near the top, follow the split in the trail to the left. After passing the boulders you'll arrive at the Main Wall and You Must Have Wings.

67 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Descanso Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 4
Bringin' Home the Bacon
Boulder
V1 5
 4
The Most Interesting Climb in th…
Boulder
V2 5+
 4
Flying Solo
TR, Boulder
V2 5+
 5
Magellan
Boulder
V2 5+
 5
Sink or Swim
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 3
Nose Job
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 42
You Must Have Wings
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 45
We Refuse to Grow Old and/or Up
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 30
Gecko Twins
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Space Ramp
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 38
King of Pain
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 6
Roll Over Beethoven
Sport, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Stay Thirsty
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
Icarus
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 11
Into the Eye of the Son
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bringin' Home the Bacon Descanso Boulders > Event Horizon Boulder
 4
V1 5 Boulder
The Most Interesting Climb… Descanso Boulders > Dos Equis Boulder
 4
V1 5 Boulder
Flying Solo Descanso Boulders > Library Boulder
 4
V2 5+ TR, Boulder
Magellan Descanso Boulders > Magellan Boulder
 5
V2 5+ Boulder
Sink or Swim Descanso Boulders > Vasa Boulder
 5
V2 5+ Boulder
Nose Job Descanso Boulders > Vasa Boulder
 3
V2-3 5+ Boulder
You Must Have Wings Main Wall
 42
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
We Refuse to Grow Old and/o… Main Wall
 45
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Gecko Twins Main Wall
 30
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Space Ramp Main Wall
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
King of Pain Main Wall
 38
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Roll Over Beethoven Main Wall
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Sport, TR
Stay Thirsty Descanso Boulders > Dos Equis Boulder
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b TR
Icarus Main Wall
 28
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Into the Eye of the Son Main Wall
 11
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Descanso Wall »

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