All Locations > Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's C… > Refuge > Heaven's Gate

Open Gate

Name: Open Gate
Rating: 2.3

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Heaven's Gate

L › R R › L A › Z

	correct answer, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Drink the Cool-Aid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gatekeeper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hale Bopp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Heaven S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Heaven Can Wait S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	In Alignment T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Lil' Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Lil' Devil T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mormons T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Open Gate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Stairway to Heaven T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Trundling Angels T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS:	33.2728, -111.0475
FA:	Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson
Page Views:	909 total · 5/month
Shared By:	arjunmh on Jan 9, 2012
Admins:	Zach Levy, Sierra Blair, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at: queencreekclimbing.com/.
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.

You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…

Description

Three stars and 5.9 if you climb this without touching the back wall. Rock quality is superb and the right leaning diagonal crack offers a delightful line up through this corridor. Follow this crack up about 30-40 feet to where it runs out and then head straight up thinly protected face to access anchors on top of this formation. Note that this climb is ideal free soloing practice as the back wall is so close that you can lean up against it, or stem from up higher if you get into trouble. Also good practice if you're ramping up your trad leading.

Location

From the TBA climbs on the front buttress turn uphill (climber's right) and step up a level. A narrow passage opens up to your right. There's a right leaning diagonal crack that leads up the left wall (roughly north facing). Climb that to the vertical face above. DO NOT touch the back wall unless you're in trouble!