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Routes in Heaven's Gate

Drink the Cool-Aid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gatekeeper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hale Bopp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heaven S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heaven Can Wait S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
In Alignment T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lil' Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lil' Devil T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mormons T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Open Gate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stairway to Heaven T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trundling Angels T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
correct answer, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson
Page Views: 219 total, 3/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Jan 9, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Three stars and 5.9 if you climb this without touching the back wall. Rock quality is superb and the right leaning diagonal crack offers a delightful line up through this corridor. Follow this crack up about 30-40 feet to where it runs out and then head straight up thinly protected face to access anchors on top of this formation. Note that this climb is ideal free soloing practice as the back wall is so close that you can lean up against it, or stem from up higher if you get into trouble. Also good practice if you're ramping up your trad leading.

Location

From the TBA climbs on the front buttress turn uphill (climber's right) and step up a level. A narrow passage opens up to your right. There's a right leaning diagonal crack that leads up the left wall (roughly north facing). Climb that to the vertical face above. DO NOT touch the back wall unless you're in trouble!

Protection

Single rack of cams.

Photos

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