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My Demon Lover T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 353 total · 5/month
Shared By: brianhaas on Jan 8, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

The first crux is a mixture of body position and hight, no more than 7 feet off the ground. A drop knee-layback deal to a (PG-13 if on lead) dubious reach. Second Crux is just below the two bolt anchor with a sandy hand-jam traverse lacking any feet placement, much easier than the first crux. I'd highly recommend TRing it before you try freeing it; it's a stout .11a if you fudge the movement with a nasty ground fall.

Location

From the climbers trail it will be the first (and quite obvious) line that you see. A flake/crack/seam under a 6 foot roof.

Protection

Most commonly Top Roped off of two shiny new anchors. If leading it, make sure to bring at least 2 cams in the 2-3 in. range for the roof and a few small nuts for the lower 1/2 of the climb (i think i used two #5 BD nuts, one .75 piece, one 1 in piece, and one 2 in piece).

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