My Demon Lover
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 37.23049, -122.09476 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,262 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | brianhaas on Jan 8, 2012 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
The first crux is a mixture of body position and hight, no more than 7 feet off the ground. A drop knee-layback deal to a (PG-13 if on lead) dubious reach. Second Crux is just below the two bolt anchor with a sandy hand-jam traverse lacking any feet placement, much easier than the first crux. I'd highly recommend TRing it before you try freeing it; it's a stout .11a if you fudge the movement with a nasty ground fall.



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