Type: Trad, Sport, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ruedi und Werner Gatsch
Page Views: 566 total · 4/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Dec 27, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

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A moderate yet very interesting "semi-trad" route with highly varied climbing.

Pitches go at 5c, 6a-, 5a, 5a, 6a, 5b.

Another route begins just to the left of Gatsch and shares the first belay. Although more difficult (6a), it is recommended to climb this instead of the unpleasant intro chimney of Gatsch.
From the first belay, the Gatsch route ascends diagonally to the left along a nice crack line, and then back to the right along another good crack. Don't be deceived by a line of bolts ascending directly from the anchor - this belongs to another route. Different sport routes cross Gatsch in the third and fourth pitches as well - just keep to the obvious, crack/chimney system (both pitches have only one bolt on them).

Consult the plaisir-ost guidebook for a topo.


The first pitch of the route ascends a chimney / corner system 10-20 meters to the right of the South Pillar route.

It is possible to descend by abseil from one of the neighboring sport routes. To descend by foot, head west after topping out on a small footpath. The path leads back around to the south slope and along the base of the wall.


All anchors are bolted, and there are bolts where gear placements are sparse to nonexistant (in particular the face / slab climbing sections). A full assortment of cams and stoppers is recommended.