Avg: 4 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1150 ft, 11 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||1960 Ruedi + Werner Vieli|
|Page Views:||2,235 total, 31/month|
|Shared By:||Dan Flynn on Dec 12, 2011|
DescriptionA very fine route up a beckoning ridge of rock. Fantastic granite ridge climbing, with full-value exposure on the upper pitches. Retreat back down the ridge would be very tedious.
This description follows the 'directissima' start from the northern-most tip of the ridge, marked as route 142 in the posted topo. Pitches are also described as they made the most sense to us, linking a few easy traverses on flat ground and building belays at logical spots. Start at 'Grat 5c' carved into the stone!
P1 - 5c. Layback and then across bolted slab. Head up the short chimmney and either belay on top of the chimmney or walk across grassy patch to the obvious corner.
P2 - 5c? - Two options, left and right crack. Right crack is half picture-perfect 5.9 crack climbing, half 5.10 offwidth at the top. I would go left next time!
P3 - 5c - Original route starts at a cairn down and to the left. Direct route (not shown in topo here) goes up right. Scurry up some slabs to large corner, go in and make some traversing moves up to a chimney.
P4 - 4c. Now joins original route. Grovel elegantly up a chimney, walk right, head up corner.
P5 - 4b. More chimney work, and now head around to exposed western side of the ridge.
P4 - 2a. Traverse across a flat table, with nothing but air on both sides! Would for sure be an easy stroll without snow/ice on the table
P5 - 5b. Sidepull/mantle/thug up some blocky holds.
P6 - 4a. Walk across the ridge, then follow the pitons and bolts up the face. Note: at the ledge, can exit left to reach the abseil stands for Nanouk and Medea.
P7 - 5b - Headwall to the top!
Descent is equipped for a single 50m rope if you don't mind doing 10 rappels. Quite fast with 2 x 50 or longer. Have to scamper 20 min across talus field at the bottom to return to packs.
Additional information about the route and area over on SummitPost.