Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Carl "The G-Man" Gostola
Page Views: 63 total · 1/month
Shared By: BBQ on Nov 25, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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Some things are just too good to resist the urge if you have a chance to scratch that persistant itch. This route is a spectacular example of an 5.10 urge that needs to be scratched till you are chaffed!

I am a connoisseur of all routes rated 5.10a...and this beauty has my full attention. This route might not quite have the length of Action Candy at Sinks Canyon or the famously clean line of Red Ryder at Wild Iris...but it is just as mind-blowingly fun. A spectacular onsight if you can bag it, yet a sweet red point if you have to try again.

Just hang on! Even you can make it up this pumpy route with its mysterious sequences that include great laybacks, side-pulls, gastons and a mind-bending crux at a roof that fills one with great reward after you unlock a fun series of escape moves.

Varied, sustained and sequential this route is worth the hike to hell and back. It might not be the best 5.10a on Earth, but it has my vote for one of the best of the new school five tens in Spearfish Canyon. If you are at Sunshine Wall and have the time to wander around and find this little testpeice it is well worth the time and effort.

Just remember to keep your hand on the stick and your eyes on the prize. GET ON THIS THIS THING!


The first route on the last wall at the Sunshine area. Getting to this route probably does not require the same level of hiking one needs to endure to get to Jenny Crag Wall at Big Picture Gully, but you will be putting one foot in front of the othe several times.


10 quickdraws. Open Shut anchors


Snake Ferguson
Rapid City, SD
Snake Ferguson   Rapid City, SD
Belayer: keep your eyes open and your helmet on if you got one, there's a bit of choss to be dodged. Thanks Brent, Jerry. This route popped my cherry for the screamin' barfies! I'm glad I didn't let go :D Nov 28, 2011