Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in c. Main Wall

Fresno Flats S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guides in a Snowbank S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Looking Glass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Watership Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: M. Sorensen, R. Baum, R. Robbins (June 1975)
Page Views: 182 total · 2/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Nov 1, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The Main Wall of Fresno Dome has a giant buttress sitting in the middle of it. Watership Down is the striking right-facing corner which is formed by the right side of this buttress. It will probably catch your eye as it is one of the first impressive features you see as you approach the dome from Zippity-Do-Dah Buttress.

The pro on this climb isn't great, mostly due to to dirt filled cracks and occasionally loose rock. It's best suited for experienced 5.7 leaders.

Climb up the chimney and lieback the corner to belay at an alcove. Continue up the corner past a tricky offwidth bulge thing (it's best to lieback, but you need to squeeze in there to place pro) and belay at another rubble filled alcove. A final pitch climbs up the corner and traverses beneath a roof to the right. Climb across the face and up onto a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. There is also a 2 bolt anchor directly above the buttress, but belaying here gives worse rope drag.

You can either rap with 2 ropes (we've done it with one 70m which is ill-advised, it requires downclimbing to anchors 2 pitches off the deck!), or there's a newly added sport route which climbs straight up from the anchors (the start is a short section of 5.9, then it's easier) which leads to the top of the dome.

Protection

Pro to 3"

Photos

- No Photos -
Bryan G
Yosemite
  5.7
Bryan G   Yosemite
  5.7
Watership Down is the obvious corner in these photos.


Nov 1, 2011

More About Watership Down

Printer-Friendly