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Routes in Main Wall

Fresno Flats S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guides in a Snowbank S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Looking Glass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Watership Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Lynnea and Jerry
Page Views: 599 total, 14/month
Shared By: steple on Jun 17, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Dicey moves off the deck to the first bolt. Then consistent, easier climbing straight up for 3 pitches to the big ledge. Last pitch straight up the vertical headwall.

The lower 3 pitches have bolts in just the right spots, but some might consider it a little runout. Bolts on the 10a section are placed closer together.

Pitch 1 is about 140', has rap anchors.
Pitch 2 is about 140', anchors are not set up for rappel.
Pitch 3 is about 115, one bolt has quick link.
No anchor on pitch 4, sling a boulder.

After pitch 3 you reach the big ledge. You can probably finish on Fresno Flats from here if you want to avoid the headwall.

Location

First route to the right of Watership Down (the corner).

Protection

All bolted, 10 quickdraws should suffice. No need to bring trad gear other than for the final anchor (slings around a boulder are fine).

Photos

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Manderson198
  5.10a
Manderson198  
  5.10a
Climbed with Garrett. Amazingly fun four-pitch route! The first three pitches are super mellow (with the exception of a heady move before the first bolt---trust the feet). You have to trust the friction. It's awesome, and most of the rock is bomber. The last pitch is definitely the 10a pitch. A physical couple of bolts leads to a small roof. Pull that, and you're practically at the top. I'd break down the pitches as follows: 5.9, 5.7, 5.6, 5.10-.

Scramble to the top of Fresno Dome via high-4th, low-5th class moves, and a short hike. The view is great, and the descent is easy hiking.

This was a great route, and a fun taste of dome, friction climbing. The route to the right of this one looks amazing as well. Jun 3, 2015