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Routes in c. Main Wall

Fresno Flats S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guides in a Snowbank S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Looking Glass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Watership Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Lynnea and Jerry
Page Views: 697 total · 15/month
Shared By: steple on Jun 17, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Description [Edit]

Dicey moves off the deck to the first bolt. Then consistent, easier climbing straight up for 3 pitches to the big ledge. Last pitch straight up the vertical headwall.

The lower 3 pitches have bolts in just the right spots, but some might consider it a little runout. Bolts on the 10a section are placed closer together.

Pitch 1 is about 140', has rap anchors.
Pitch 2 is about 140', anchors are not set up for rappel.
Pitch 3 is about 115, one bolt has quick link.
No anchor on pitch 4, sling a boulder.

After pitch 3 you reach the big ledge. You can probably finish on Fresno Flats from here if you want to avoid the headwall.

Location [Edit]

First route to the right of Watership Down (the corner).

Protection [Edit]

All bolted, 10 quickdraws should suffice. No need to bring trad gear other than for the final anchor (slings around a boulder are fine).


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Climbed with Garrett. Amazingly fun four-pitch route! The first three pitches are super mellow (with the exception of a heady move before the first bolt---trust the feet). You have to trust the friction. It's awesome, and most of the rock is bomber. The last pitch is definitely the 10a pitch. A physical couple of bolts leads to a small roof. Pull that, and you're practically at the top. I'd break down the pitches as follows: 5.9, 5.7, 5.6, 5.10-.

Scramble to the top of Fresno Dome via high-4th, low-5th class moves, and a short hike. The view is great, and the descent is easy hiking.

This was a great route, and a fun taste of dome, friction climbing. The route to the right of this one looks amazing as well. Jun 3, 2015

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