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Routes in Main Wall

Fresno Flats S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guides in a Snowbank S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Looking Glass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Watership Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown.
Page Views: 177 total, 12/month
Shared By: C Brooks on Aug 16, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Bolted slab to the right of Guides in a Snowbank. Originally a R/X route that was rebolted in the mid 1990s. Hardest move is right off the deck. The rest is 5.easy

3 pitches of mellow slab bring you to a headwall and a big ledge. Here you have several options to finish:

1) Exit to the right (4th class) belay from the top
2) Follow the arching crack up the headwall, clipping 2 bolts (5.8)
3) Move over to the anchor on Guides in a Snowbank. Climb the steep bolted headwall (5.9/5.10-)
4) Move even further over on the ledge, and climb the unnamed 5.8/5.9 OW crack to the summit.

Location

When heading down the approach trail, you will come across a giant dihedral crack system with a slab beside it. The obvious crack is Watership down, the first bolted line to the right is Guides in a Snowbank, the next one is Fresno Flats.

Protection

6-8 Quick draws. Optional gear depending on choice of finish. I find its always handy to carry a single set of cams when climbing at Fresno Dome.

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Alistair Veitch
Mountain View, CA
  5.7+ R
Alistair Veitch   Mountain View, CA
  5.7+ R
Think this deserves an R rating. If you blow the first (hardest) move to the bolt, you're going to get at least pretty banged up. There are more 5.7 moves to the second bolt, and if you blow the moves getting to it, you'll probably deck - broken bones for sure. Consistent 40+ foot runouts for the rest of the route, although it gets easier the higher you go. Jun 6, 2017