Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown - solo/ X rated prior to 1988 - Retrobolted by Mike Arechiga, Brad Watson& Michel Forecroy 1995
Page Views: 841 total · 18/month
Shared By: Cory B on Aug 16, 2016 with improvements by Mike Arechiga
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Bolted slab to the right of Guides in a Snowbank.
Originally a R/X route that was rebolted in the mid 1990s by Mike Arechiga et. al. making it a more friendly and safer, beginner lead.
 Hardest move is right off the deck. The rest is 5.easy

3 pitches of mellow slab bring you to a headwall and a big ledge. Here you have several options to finish:

1) Exit to the right (4th class) belay from the top
2) Follow the arching crack up the headwall, clipping 2 bolts (5.8)
3) Move over to the anchor on Guides in a Snowbank. Climb the steep bolted headwall (5.9/5.10-)
4) Move even further over on the ledge, and climb the unnamed 5.8/5.9 OW crack to the summit.

Location

When heading down the approach trail, you will come across a giant dihedral crack system with a slab beside it. The obvious crack is Watership down, the first bolted line to the right is Guides in a Snowbank, the next one is Fresno Flats.

Protection

6-8 Quick draws. Optional gear depending on choice of finish. I find its always handy to carry a single set of cams when climbing at Fresno Dome.

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