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Routes in Allenbrook

Afterburner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beginner's Arete TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beginner's Route TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Block Direct T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chode Route TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Groove, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Hooker TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Levitation TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Rumors Right TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumors Roof T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,326 total · 16/month
Shared By: Dylan Demyanek on Oct 24, 2011
Admins: saxfiend

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is the second route on the wall if counting from the left. Afterburner starts on large jugs and trends slightly right up overhanging rock to a mediocre rest about halfway up. Make a few moves to go nearly horizontal. The crux move is a long reach over the lip of the roof. After sticking the crux, finish through the top on big holds and ledges.

Location [Suggest Change]

about 10' right of Happy Hooker

Protection [Suggest Change]

Toprope

Photos

Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
No "huge lunge or dyno" required really. I remember getting a calf lock/toe cam using a calf on the corner of the roof and basically doing a situp on it, then bumping off an intermediate to a jug.
The rest of it is just a jug haul on buckets.

There is a full-on no hands rest halfway out the roof by hooking a leg over each of the two big flake-like features. Jul 25, 2012

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