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Routes in Allenbrook

Afterburner TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beginner's Arete TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beginner's Route TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Block Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chode Route TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Groove, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Hooker TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Levitation TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Rumors Right TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumors Roof T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,379 total · 16/month
Shared By: Dylan Demyanek on Oct 24, 2011
Admins: saxfiend

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Description

This is the second route on the wall if counting from the left. Afterburner starts on large jugs and trends slightly right up overhanging rock to a mediocre rest about halfway up. Make a few moves to go nearly horizontal. The crux move is a long reach over the lip of the roof. After sticking the crux, finish through the top on big holds and ledges.

Location

about 10' right of Happy Hooker

Protection

Toprope

Photos

Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
No "huge lunge or dyno" required really. I remember getting a calf lock/toe cam using a calf on the corner of the roof and basically doing a situp on it, then bumping off an intermediate to a jug.
The rest of it is just a jug haul on buckets.

There is a full-on no hands rest halfway out the roof by hooking a leg over each of the two big flake-like features. Jul 25, 2012

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