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Routes in South Wall

Donkey Show S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drill Drop S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Festus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Glass Eye S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Live Wire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
May Cause Dizziness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
May Cause Drowsiness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pain Killer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Smoke Signal S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,562 total, 21/month
Shared By: Aerili on Oct 18, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A very sustained 10a (with the exception of a long runout on low 5th class terrain before the final two bolts), Festus grabs your attention with many cool moves and various techniques required as soon as you clip the first bolt.

Very short people may find the crux to be moving off the second bolt into the right-facing dihedral (very reachy for those at the lower end of 5'). For me, the crux was the steep and slightly runout ground between bolts 3 to 4, a mini-traverse that thankfully offers great hand jams to mitigate the building pump. (It would be possible to throw in a cam here.)

A final 10a crux occurs at the last bolt before the anchors as well. I felt there were several sections on this route where falling would have been an unpleasant experience, but this is one of the better routes I have done at Big Chief.

Protection

6 bolts + Mussy hook anchors

Photos

Dennis Fulgencio
  5.10a
Dennis Fulgencio  
  5.10a
Probably the funnest 5.10a in the crag! I love the variety of the moves going through the bottom half. Not really needed for most, but a few people are able to get a knee-bar on it. Shorter people will definitely appreciate the knee-bar. Jul 17, 2016
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
  5.10c
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
  5.10c
I found this route MUCH harder than either Mohawk, Sweating Bullets, or Too Light To Wait, even though I'm 6'3". Dunno why. My climbing partner also had lots of trouble on TR that they don't normally have on 10a. Aug 17, 2015