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Routes in South Wall
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Donkey Show S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Drill Drop S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Festus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Glass Eye S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Live Wire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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May Cause Dizziness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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May Cause Drowsiness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pain Killer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Smoke Signal S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Brian Mason, Dave Hatchett Oct 1990 |
| Page Views: | 4,150 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Aerili on Oct 18, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
A very fun and sustained 10a, Festus grabs your attention with many cool moves and various techniques required as soon as you clip the first bolt.
Very short people may find the crux to be moving off the second bolt “now protected with a long perma draw” into the right-facing dihedral (very reachy for those at the lower end of 5'). For me, the crux was the steep mini-traverse that thankfully offers great hand jams to mitigate the building pump.
A final 10a red point crux occurs at the last bolt before the anchors as well. As of Oct 2022 Festus has been retrobolted with new anchors and a few more lead bolts have been added in the previously run out sections, now making this a safe lead for a 5.10 climber. This is one of the better routes I have done at Big Chief and now a well bolted 5.10a
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