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Festus

5.10a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 72 votes
FA: Brian Mason, Dave Hatchett Oct 1990
California > Lake Tahoe > Truckee River C… > Big Chief Area > S Wall

Description

A very fun and sustained 10a, Festus grabs your attention with many cool moves and various techniques required as soon as you clip the first bolt.

Very short people may find the crux to be moving off the second bolt “now protected with a long perma draw” into the right-facing dihedral (very reachy for those at the lower end of 5'). For me, the crux was the steep mini-traverse that thankfully offers great hand jams to mitigate the building pump. 

A final 10a red point crux occurs at the last bolt before the anchors as well. As of Oct 2022 Festus has been retrobolted with new anchors and a few more lead bolts have been added in the previously run out sections, now making this a safe lead for a 5.10 climber.  This is one of the better routes I have done at Big Chief and now a well bolted 5.10a 

Protection

9 bolts, mussy hook anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Festus in the late afternoon sun.
[Hide Photo] Festus in the late afternoon sun.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] I found this route MUCH harder than either Mohawk, Sweating Bullets, or Too Light To Wait, even though I'm 6'3". Dunno why. My climbing partner also had lots of trouble on TR that they don't normally have on 10a. Aug 17, 2015
Dennis Fulgencio
Rocklin, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Probably the funnest 5.10a in the crag! I love the variety of the moves going through the bottom half. Not really needed for most, but a few people are able to get a knee-bar on it. Shorter people will definitely appreciate the knee-bar. Jul 17, 2016
Hayden Evans
Victor, ID
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Hard for 10a and somewhat run out. Not the best lead for the aspiring 5.10 leader. Crimpy crux going to the chains felt like 10d climbing. Fun and varied route, feels like a solid 10c. May 28, 2020
Moss Halladay
Truckee, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Dave and I added new Anchors with Mussy Hooks as well as moved a few bolts and added a few bolts to make this climb safer. There are now 9 bolts total and the second bolt now has a perma draw on it. Hopefully this gets more people on it! Oct 13, 2022. FA. Brian Mason, Dave Hatchett, Oct 1990 Oct 14, 2022
[Hide Comment] Well if you don't want the spoiler on the crux beta, quickly look away...I think the reason people some people have a hard time at the low crux on this climb is because they are not finding the key left hand sidepull that lets you lean right off the jug foot and make the reach to the bomber lock. It's small, hard to see and often has no chalk, but it makes all the difference. Without it, it feels awkward and 10+. Dec 28, 2024