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Routes in (b) East Face

Bite Me Not S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chameleon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chameleon p2 T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cytotoxic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Easy Prey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just Basking S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
On Yer Bike S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Rattle and Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ready to Strike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sidewinder S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: James Moore 1996
Page Views: 210 total · 2/month
Shared By: Aimee Rose on Sep 18, 2011 with updates from applewood
Admins: Sean Godwin, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

Shares the first two bolts with Ready to Strike (5.10a trad), then goes right.

Location

The obvious corner on the South Face, to the right of the super chalked Sidewinder (5.10c) and Cytotoxic (5.11a).

Protection

11 bolts to chain anchors. An optional cam could be placed between the 2nd and 3rd bolt.

Photos

applewood
Tonasket, WA
  5.11d
applewood   Tonasket, WA
  5.11d
Just Basking 5.11d ** 80' F (11bolts)
Listed in the guidebook as a variation finish of Ready To Strike. Climbs a direct line on the right wall of the corner, stepping onto the right wall after the first 2 bolts in the 5.9 corner of Ready to Strike (above the corner's first roof). Follow the bolts through the progressively harder moves to the technical 11d/12a finish - which is what we did on the first ascent (it's substantially easier if you use the right arete at the top - thus the 11c grade in the 1997 guidebook I guess). Easy access to the chain anchors on top make for a fun top rope climb (25m). FA 10/12/96

Lots of bolts, good rock, consistent, interesting moves. May 28, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b PG13
Cleaned this route on TR- thought the direct finish that avoids stepping right onto the arete was .12a/b- very hard and desperate on really bad holds. Safe, though. Probably would feel easier if its colder.

That said, the obvious route steps right up high and finishes up the arete to avoid the 4 move v4 boulder problem finish. Good fun regardlesss. May 27, 2014
applewood
Tonasket, WA
  5.11d
applewood   Tonasket, WA
  5.11d
John, we originally top-roped this thing on the summer solstice of '94 (and named it after a coiled and peaceful rattler we saw on the big ledge below the face), but it wasn't until mid October in '96 that I returned to bolt and lead it. I did the direct finish since it looked like using the arete was a cop-out of the crux, and I liked how the overall route just got harder the higher you went. Rated it 11d since it seemed a bit harder than the 11c's I'd previously done.... Jul 1, 2016

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