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Routes in Main Slab

Africa Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boogaloo Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Thrills T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drain Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edger Sanction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
English Hanging Gardens T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giant Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kwanku Dai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let It Bleed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mad Dogs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mind Bender T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pudnurtle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Dog T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raging Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Crack Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabbergasted TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtacular TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toprope Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Trough, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Variation to Boogaloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedunett T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 673 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tristan Burnham on Sep 6, 2011
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Details

Description

This is the small short crack to the left of the 2 other cracks/flakes on the top half of the slab. It’s a finger/hand crack that is real easy to protect. Lead Boogaloo 5.8 or The Roof 5.9 to get up to the anchors, or another route like The Trough 5.5 to the top and then rap down and left to the anchors. From the anchors traverse left past Left Flake and then up the short crack. The crack dies out after about 20 feet and is filled with grass, from here you can follow the grassy crack up and run it out or traverse left 5 feet and take another flake up for 10 feet (protectable). From there head up and right to the anchors above Left Flake/Right Flake/Let it Bleed. Since this route starts traversing left and ends back right bring slings to reduce rope drag. To get down just rap back to the anchors and then rap down again to the ground. This crack is fun but it’s really short, it’d be a good warm up if you were a 5.7 trad leader and wanted to get a lap in before trying the other cracks. Also you could use this to set up a TR for the other cracks. To me the crux was traversing left once you past Left Flake, you can put a cam in to protect a swing here. It’s a real easy fun move because you get some instant exposure. Then there is another crux maybe 5 feet up the crack and then it’s easy to the top.

Location

To the left of the 2 Flakes/Cracks on the upper half of the main slab.

Protection

Light rack, bolted anchors at the top.

Photos

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