Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,215 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jordan K on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rebolting Complete! Details

Description

A fun route up a right-facing dihedral with a small finger crack. Fun moves up the crack, with the crux about 1/3 of the way up the crack.

Location

Route starts on a large ledge directly above Boogaloo Direct. Rap anchors on top, and at the base. Climb starts at the left-most end of the ledge.

Protection

Standard rack (a few small-med cams), bolted anchor

Photos

Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
I thought this route was a bit trickier to protect than the Right Flake. Jun 2, 2008
For some reason, this wasn't as good as right flake. Still not sure why. It is good early lead. Jun 1, 2009
double BD .5 & .75 will help, and I placed a 1 master cam Apr 3, 2010
Eric Holden
Temecula, CA
 
Eric Holden   Temecula, CA
 
There is a new birds nest right at the base of this route, watch out as momma bird has been very protective. May 26, 2011
Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles
 
Michael Bartosek   Los Angeles
 
I used a few nuts, a couple of the C3 cams and one or two C4 cams (.5 and .75) and felt like I sewed it up pretty good. I loved this climb, you can stay in the crack or use a combination of crack and arete edge holds, can't wait to get back out there and take another spin on it. Jan 30, 2012
Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
Rob Selter   running springs Ca
 
very good route, eats up the small stuff. Apr 16, 2012
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.7
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.7
Don't feel like you need just small gear for this one. I placed a .75, a 1 and a 2 camalot along with 2 nuts. I felt the protection was as easy or easier than right flake. Sep 22, 2012
TacoDelRio
All up in yo bidniss.
 
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
 
Small cams work great on the flakes. I have WC Zeroes and BD X4's. I place these as well as a #1 and #.75 C4 on left flake, and smaller C4's on right flake. Nov 2, 2013
William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
  5.6
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
  5.6
Great route with fun lieback fingers and great protection on pretty sticky granite. I used bd c4 2x#1, a #2, a .5, a .75 and mastercam 00, a mc 3, and I clipped a couple stoppers that were stuck in crack. A fun easy lead. Prob not 5.7 compared to Tahquitz or Joshua. Jan 20, 2014