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Routes in Main Slab

Africa Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boogaloo Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Thrills T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drain Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edger Sanction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
English Hanging Gardens T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giant Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kwanku Dai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let It Bleed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mad Dogs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mind Bender T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pudnurtle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Dog T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raging Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Crack Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabbergasted TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtacular TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toprope Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Trough, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Variation to Boogaloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedunett T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,046 total, 15/month
Shared By: Jordan K on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

Details

Description

This fun crack climb is one of the few trad routes at Big Rock and a great climb for a beginner trad leader. Easy to protect with fun moves.

Location

Starts on a ledge above Boogaloo. On the right side of the ledge, follow the obvious right-facing crack/corner system.

Protection

Standard rack
great from a new leader.. very relaxed climbing with plenty of places for solid pro May 30, 2014
William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
  5.7
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
  5.7
Great crack with fingers and lieback slab climbing. Seems about same difficulty as left flake but slightly harder to protect on lead than left flake. Jan 21, 2014
TacoDelRio
All up in yo bidniss.
 
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
 
FWIW there is a solid bolted anchor above this flake, which I use for both flakes as well as that 5.4 crack without problem. Nov 2, 2013
Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
Rob Selter   running springs Ca
 
really enjoyable! I like this one a bit more than the left flake. And I agree you should build an anchor for this one. Apr 16, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
While the Right Flake offers great moves and excellent rock, the gear placements can be tricky. The somewhat traversing nature of the route, small, shallow cracks and pods can be problematic to protect. Much of the gear is small nuts and cams, and rope drag can be an issue if slings aren't utilized, where necessary. Not really the best choice for beginning trad. leaders. Nov 21, 2010
Great for early trad leaders. The quick traverse right at the "roof" may intimidate a first leader but the hidden jug at the end is very welcome. Jun 1, 2009
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
Left Flake has a bolt anchor. It's better to build your own for the Right Flake. Jun 2, 2008