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Early Access
Routes in The Upper Great Face
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A Few Moments of Pleasure T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Anniversary S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Big Steep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brass Junkie T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Crux Simplex S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Forgotten Pulse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Golden Monkey, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Golden Staircase, pitches 12, 13, 14, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hotness, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Paul's Boutique T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Tomfoolery S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wiffle Ball Bat S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.30342, -105.52275 |
| FA: | Paul Pomeroy & Chris Taylor |
| Page Views: | 1,022 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | C T on Aug 28, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Area closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area WAS closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area WAS blocked off. That has been rescinded.
Description
This route starts from the top of Pitch 1 of 'Paul's Boutique
Pitch 1: Climb up and RIGHT from the anchor on easy rock to gain the first bolt. Continue past one more bolt, then fire up the thin crack/seam (crux) placing gear when available to gain the large comfortable belay ledge(the '5.10 ledge'). 90 feet, 5.10+.
(This pitch can also be started from the bolted anchor atop pitch 1 of 'The Big Steep', by climbing left to gain the first bolt)
Pitch 2: Locate a crack in the green/black stripe of lichen that shoots up the left side of the headwall (just left of 'The Hotness'), and follow it for 60 feet. Another 40 feet of easy climbing leads up to a bolted ring anchor near the top of the wall(same anchor as for 'The Hotness'). 100 feet, 5.9+.
Descent: From the top of pitch 3, lower or rappel with a 60 meter rope back to the large belay ledge (the '5.10 ledge'). Then rappel down to the base using the bolted chain anchors for 'The Big Steep'.
Location
'Brass Junkie' starts from the top of the first pitch of 'Paul's Boutique' and climbs up and RIGHT from the belay to reach the first bolt.
Protection
Pitch 1: 'Paul's Boutique' start-Twelve bolts(long runners useful), bolted anchor; or 'The Big Steep' start-Eleven bolts, bolted anchor.
Pitch 2: Two bolts, Standard rack, including small wires. Gear anchor.
Pitch 3: Standard rack, including small wires,(one 4" to 4.5" inch cam is very useful). Bolted anchor.
Don't forget the brass.
60 meter rope mandatory. TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE!
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