Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Foster, Bob Jasperson, Bernard Gillett
Page Views: 2,234 total · 16/month
Shared By: Bob Jasperson on Aug 6, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This indistinct line begins about 25 feet left of the huge buttress in the middle of the Upper Great Face, between the Kor-Northcutt on the right and The Big Steep on the left, and finishes with the beautiful headwall beneath the summit.

Pitch 1: Turn a small roof on the left or right (gear) and climb past two bolts to a ledge. Continue upwards (gear) past two more bolts (crux) to a left-facing corner that defines the left side of a "V"-shaped wedge (the right side of the "V" is the obvious slot on the Kor-Northcutt). Climb this corner and stretch the rope to the lowest point of a large ledge system that traverses the upper region of the face (5.10b/c R; 200 feet).

Pitch 2: Climb the vertical headwall above to anchors (sporty 5.9+; 10 bolts; bring midrange cams for placements above the bolts; 110 feet).

Descent: Rap to The Big Steep anchors (slightly north) on the large ledge system. A single 60-meter rope just barely reaches these anchors -- tie a knot. Rap again to another set of anchors on The Big Steep (single rope) or to the ground (double).


Wireds to a #2 Camalot.


I can only comment on the second pitch, because we did the Big Steep to get there, but this pitch is absolutely superb...certainly one of the best bolted pitches of its grade on the Front Range. Four stars for steepness, quality of rock, engaging and enjoyable climbing, and great position. Be prepared for well-spaced bolts: It's somewhat sporty but safe once you clip the first bolt, which you can reach directly from the belay ledge or (easier) from a flake on the right. A 70-meter rope lets you lower to the belay ledge, about 15 feet below the anchors on the Big Steep. Aug 6, 2007
What Dougald said. Dreamy top pitch. Jul 1, 2008
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.10b/c R
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
  5.10b/c R
For P1, I felt the crux was between bolts 1 & 2, I used two #3 Camalots, first below bolt 1 and second near top P1 in left-facing crack. Route finding was fun for P1, 10b/c. For P2, I almost blew a clip on 2nd or 3rd to the last bolt, P2 is fabulous, but it's no give a way; stay focused! Aug 29, 2016
P1 seems to be truly dangerous. Maybe I missed a placement. I found a hard 5.10 crux before the first bolt, high above the trad gear. In the event of a fall, it would be a 20 footer on to a ledge. These moves felt harder than any on first pitch of the Big Steep or Paul's Boutique. Bring an orange Metolius or purple C4 for a pocket before the first bolt of P2. I recommend the Big Steep or PB as a way to get to P2 of The Golden Monkey. Jun 11, 2018