The Golden Monkey
Avg: 3.1 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Paul Foster, Bob Jasperson, Bernard Gillett|
|Page Views:||2,070 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Bob Jasperson on Aug 6, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis indistinct line begins about 25 feet left of the huge buttress in the middle of the Upper Great Face, between the Kor-Northcutt on the right and The Big Steep on the left, and finishes with the beautiful headwall beneath the summit.
Pitch 1: Turn a small roof on the left or right (gear) and climb past two bolts to a ledge. Continue upwards (gear) past two more bolts (crux) to a left-facing corner that defines the left side of a "V"-shaped wedge (the right side of the "V" is the obvious slot on the Kor-Northcutt). Climb this corner and stretch the rope to the lowest point of a large ledge system that traverses the upper region of the face (5.10b/c R; 200 feet).
Pitch 2: Climb the vertical headwall above to anchors (sporty 5.9+; 10 bolts; bring midrange cams for placements above the bolts; 110 feet).
Descent: Rap to The Big Steep anchors (slightly north) on the large ledge system. A single 60-meter rope just barely reaches these anchors -- tie a knot. Rap again to another set of anchors on The Big Steep (single rope) or to the ground (double).