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Routes in The Upper Great Face
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A Few Moments of Pleasure T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Big Steep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brass Junkie T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Forgotten Pulse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Golden Monkey, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Golden Staircase, pitches 12, 13, 14, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hotness, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Paul's Boutique T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Tomfoolery S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wiffle Ball Bat S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Paul Pomeroy & Chris Taylor, (pitch 1 with Mike Pont) |
| Page Views: | 978 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | C T on Aug 22, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Julius Beres & Matt B: $2 timed entry permits issued by RMNP are definitely required if you arrive after 9a and before 3p.
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Description
Approach by climbing pitch 1 of 'The Big Steep'.
Pitch 1: Climb straight up from the belay and follow 5 bolts on the steep wall above. Navigate through the initial bulge, then angle right on thin and brilliant face climbing past the final bolt. The difficulty gradually decreases beyond the final bolt. Climb unprotected stone to reach the bolted belay atop pitch 2 of 'The Big Steep'. (5.11, 100 feet.) Heady!
This pitch is still cleaning up a bit, and a few loose flakes here and there could send you for quite a ride.
Pitch 2: Follow 6 bolts up the beautiful orange headwall, left of the final pitch of 'The Golden Monkey'. Face climb on thin flakes for about 60 feet to large holds at the lip above the final bolt, then climb easy rock for 40 feet over somewhat loose ledges to the bolted anchor. (5.10+, 100 feet.) The anchor is located slightly left at the top. Directional protection can be placed above the final bolt for anyone toproping pitch 2. This will reduce the potential for a swing after unclipping the last bolt, and will reduce the chance for loose rock to be dislodged from above in the event of a toprope fall.
Descent: Rappel the route.
Pitch 1: Climb straight up from the belay and follow 5 bolts on the steep wall above. Navigate through the initial bulge, then angle right on thin and brilliant face climbing past the final bolt. The difficulty gradually decreases beyond the final bolt. Climb unprotected stone to reach the bolted belay atop pitch 2 of 'The Big Steep'. (5.11, 100 feet.) Heady!
This pitch is still cleaning up a bit, and a few loose flakes here and there could send you for quite a ride.
Pitch 2: Follow 6 bolts up the beautiful orange headwall, left of the final pitch of 'The Golden Monkey'. Face climb on thin flakes for about 60 feet to large holds at the lip above the final bolt, then climb easy rock for 40 feet over somewhat loose ledges to the bolted anchor. (5.10+, 100 feet.) The anchor is located slightly left at the top. Directional protection can be placed above the final bolt for anyone toproping pitch 2. This will reduce the potential for a swing after unclipping the last bolt, and will reduce the chance for loose rock to be dislodged from above in the event of a toprope fall.
Descent: Rappel the route.
Location
Approach by climbing the first pitch of 'The Big Steep'.
Pitch 1 starts from the first bolted belay atop pitch 1 of 'The Big Steep'.
Pitch 2 starts from the large belay ledge (the '5.10 ledge'), about ten feet left of the final pitch of 'The Big Steep'.
Pitch 1 starts from the first bolted belay atop pitch 1 of 'The Big Steep'.
Pitch 2 starts from the large belay ledge (the '5.10 ledge'), about ten feet left of the final pitch of 'The Big Steep'.
Protection
Pitch 1 of 'The Big Steep': 11 bolts.
Pitch 1: 5 bolts.
Pitch 2: 6 bolts.
(Optional) - A handful of small to midsize cams, and stoppers.
Bolted anchors.
60 meter rope mandatory. TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE!
Pitch 1: 5 bolts.
Pitch 2: 6 bolts.
(Optional) - A handful of small to midsize cams, and stoppers.
Bolted anchors.
60 meter rope mandatory. TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE!
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