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Routes in The Main Wall

Barney Ruble S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Between the Lines S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bone Breaker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deedeeleevee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Desperate Venture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Gag S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gag Order S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grizzly Terrace S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Harding's Boner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
JoBraJi Roof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Top Rope Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Trick Pony S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oughta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Out of Order S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Bucket S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Weenies Doing 5.12 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
To Bosch or Not To Be S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toe Diddley S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Together in the sand S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ursus Horribilis S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wiring the Transatlantic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Woody Allen Never Dies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
You're No Warren Harding S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zenith S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,952 total, 26/month
Shared By: Conrad Wilson on Aug 14, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The large left facing dihedral marks the start of this climb.
P1) 5.5 no pro start leads to a 5.6 dihedral. There is a spot for a nut about half way up to the dihedral, hard to spot. Ends on a ledge above the broken rock.
P2) 5.5 Walk to climbers right side of ledge, clip bolt, head up mungy, confusing ledges, tending left and then finally right up an easy ramp to bolted belay. Careful not to drop mud on belayer!
Variation - 5.10a. Far right after clipping first bolt: Instead of heading back left, climb straight up past 3 more bolts directly to the belay. Clean rock, fun, 10.a/b.
P3) 5.7 Head up dirty rock climbers left to the base of the great dihedral. The bolt can be passed for less rope drag.

Protection

Standard rack to 5". Bolts. Bolted anchors. Shoulder length slings.

Photos

Brad J
  5.6
Brad J  
  5.6
Big dihedral up high seems to be changing. Where I used to put in a red camelot now takes a yellow.

Brad Apr 20, 2016
Henry Kroeker
Greenville
 
Henry Kroeker   Greenville
 
Agree...Variant makes it worth it. Feb 29, 2016
Muscrat

 
Muscrat    
 
Forget the regular 2nd pitch and do the 'variation'. Turns this into a 3+ star route.
Did this with one #3, (nothing larger) which when i went to place it, found the trigger wires were detached; oh fun! Jul 1, 2015