Type: Sport, 165 ft, 3 pitches
FA: John Lesko, Brad Johnson
Page Views: 514 total · 12/month
Shared By: Muscrat on Jul 5, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Muscrat, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

This is really one of the best, and often overlooked, lines on the main wall. 3 pitches of great exposure, wild moves (especially the 2nd pitch), and good protection make this a classic.
The crux is low and sandbagged, but the good news is it is well protected and gets easier quickly. The roof is really fun, one of those pitches you just want to run laps on. DO.
P1) 4 bolts. The crux is right at the first bolt; a small cam can be helpful between bolt 1 & 2. (10.b)
P2) 3 bolts. Head up the face past 2 bolts, clip the bolt which protects the airy but easier than it looks roof move, and up to the anchor. (5.9)
P3) 3 bolts A little dirty, especially after rain, but fun pitch. Bring tat for the anchor, it is often old, ratty, or gone. (5.7)

Location

The line of bolts directly at the base of the roof/dihedral to the right of Finger Gag. It's possible to rap from P3 to the top of P1 with a 70m. The webbing on P3 is often missing/useless.

Protection

4 draws, bolted anchors. A small cam (.3-.5) on the first pitch can help between the first 2 bolts.

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Muscrat

  5.10b
Muscrat    
  5.10b
4 stars! Pitch 2 is short, but i still extended the draws. Jul 5, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
One of the best, given **** stars, but often overlooked. How is that possible?. Can you explain that? Jan 2, 2016
Muscrat

  5.10b
Muscrat    
  5.10b
^ Umm...human kind? ^ Jan 3, 2016
Brad J
  5.10b
Brad J  
  5.10b
Terrific climb for the grade if I do say so myself. We were hammering bolts in on lead and there were times when I had to down climb to a previous bolt and hang out while getting my head back together. Really fun stuff!!

Kris and I put up a new variation to the second pitch last year. When you get to the first anchor look right, over the arete, to the face. I think it's 5 bolts and the grade is maybe 5.8. Watch out for rope drag.

Brad Apr 20, 2016