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Routes in Long Wall

Another Brick in the Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Unknown T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Your Possible Pasts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,086 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ryan Goslin on Jul 4, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

This is kind of dirty, but it is fun if you're waiting to get on Edge of Time. The guidebook has this listed as Unknown 5.8.

Location

This is just left of "Another Brick in the Wall" and the only bolted route on the Long Wall.

Protection

3 bolts and 2 for anchors. Bring gear for between the 1st and 2nd bolt, since this is the crux, and if you blow the 2nd clip you're probably going to hit the ground. I placed a #3 C4, but the horizontal will take larger or smaller depending on where you place it.

Photos

Joven  
Yup, definite line of bolts up this with ample pro in the horizontal cracks. There is also a bolted line less than 10 feet right of this route. Sep 22, 2016
percious
Bear Creek, CO
percious   Bear Creek, CO
This one had a line of bolts on it last time I was up there. Jul 6, 2014
Jonny Hart
Boulder, CO
Jonny Hart   Boulder, CO
The left anchor is loose. I was able to unscrew it by hand and suggest topping out and walk off. BD #2 & 3 suggested for double horizontals, fun route. Jun 3, 2013
Joshinator
Longmont, Colorado
 
Joshinator   Longmont, Colorado
 
Honestly, if you're in the Jurassic Park area, you should climb this. It's a nice route with some fun moves throughout. Jun 23, 2012
Robert Buswold
Northglenn, CO
 
Robert Buswold   Northglenn, CO
 
I thought this was a really fun climb, lots of good crimpy holds mixed in with a few jugs. Jun 6, 2012