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Routes in Warrior Wall

Duke of Ballet T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East Face T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Potato Chip Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prime Rib T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Warrior, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Weekday Warrior T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Pat Timson, Rick LeDuc, 1970's
Page Views: 4,134 total, 53/month
Shared By: Daniel Coltrane on Jun 20, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Previously called "The Original Route" this stunning corner crack will test all of your skills and take all of your gear. Layback, stem, face climb, and jam your way up to the crux at the very end. Good steming just before the top will allow you to work out the cruxy overhanging moves to get up over the lip and to the chains.

Location

This route follows up the main corner crack in the left facing dihedral of the wall.

Protection

The route will take gear to 3", but gear to 2" will probably suffice. Bring lots of gear because this route is long with extra finger size pieces needed for the end.
DrApnea
Wenatchee, WA
  5.10d
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
  5.10d
I did the first pitch today and brought way too much gear. Doubles from blue Metolius to BD#3 and a few nuts are more than enough to sew it up. Save a 0.75 for the top/last piece. The #4 some mention for the crux is not needed (and will not fit where you want it anyway), so don't bother with it. I hauled it up and never placed it. Above your last piece (a bomber 0.75 placed from a stem), you will have 1-2 moves until you are slapping anchors. This is an amazing route and its crux is at an overhung, well protected, clean fall. Worth doing every year.

You can rap with a single 60m if you swing over to the intermediate anchors below the flakes on the climbers left. Oct 3, 2016
David Bruneau
St. John
  5.10b
David Bruneau   St. John
  5.10b
Intimidating but soft. Rock is quite grippy and feels somewhat underclimbed. 70m with knotted ends + trending left gets you down in one rap. #4 was nice at crux. Bring lots of gear, doesn't matter what kind as there are many, many pro options. Sep 15, 2016
clint helander
anchorage, alaska
 
clint helander   anchorage, alaska
 
yeah there are some chains that allows for two rappels with a single 60m rope. A 70 makes it back to the ground in one rappel. Sep 13, 2015
Jaddles  
This may or may not be a new thing...but it seems there is now a rap station (it looks pretty new and I don't think it was there when I first did the route last year - May 2014) down and left (climbers) of the anchor which would allow you to get down off the 1st pitch without having to tag a second 60m rope for the rappel. Can anyone confirm? Sep 10, 2015
clint helander
anchorage, alaska
 
clint helander   anchorage, alaska
 
Single set to #3 is fine, with doubles in .75-3. A .75 protects the last move just fine without having to haul a #4 up there. Bring a set of nuts, there are bomber nut placements, too. Great route! Sep 8, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Here are comments added to a now-defunct second listing:

By wayne wallace, May 26, 2014

save a green camalot for the crux, and most importantly DO THE SECOND PITCH!!!!! It is awesome.
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By Jessica T, From: seattle, wa, Jun 20, 2014

I used a number #4 to protect the top section, though maybe could do it withoutÂ…will have to go back.
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By Chris Mutzel, From: Seattle, Washington, Feb 23, 2015

I was here yesterday for some mid-February climbing, who would have known...

This is the second time I have done this pitch and still just as good. Unfortunately I forgot how to handle the crux and blew the final mantle-ish move the anchors. I would recommend a blue c4 (3") at the very very top if you are a bit concerned about doing the same thing. Took a nice swing into thin air.

The second pitch was too dirty to climb. Next time will have to bring the brush...
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By Noah D, Mar 27, 2015

Just climbed this yesterday and it was great. The second pitch is clean enough to climb and also very fun. I lost my hat and it got stuck in a tree. It is a brightly colored Patagonia hat if you want to return it.
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By brandonia, Jul 13, 2015

The 1st 15' of the 2nd pitch is dirty, but after that it's perfect. once above the lichen, climb the right side of the obvious flake (crux) to a nice right facing corner. the corner peters out and a tips traverse to the left appears (mental crux). do your good deed for the season and bring a brush for the first 15'. watch the rope drag. agreed, great pitch!! Aug 24, 2015
Ryan Hoover
  5.10+
Ryan Hoover  
  5.10+
Stunning line thats very intimidating from the base. Second pitch is a 11a finger crack followed by some 10- liebacking into a fun finger traverse and up a slab that leads you to the top. Also a great pitch! Bring small gear, two ropes and/or a bunch of long slings, the second pitch is longer then it would seem. I ran out of runners and had one rope, and paid the price with some horrendous drag. Full value! Mar 25, 2013
ChrisJoosse
  5.10c/d
ChrisJoosse  
  5.10c/d
The pitch is quite long if you belay from directly downhill of the dihedral. 70m rope came in handy, especially on the descent. Full value! Jun 3, 2012