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Routes in Warrior Wall

Duke of Ballet T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East Face T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Potato Chip Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prime Rib T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Warrior, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Weekday Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Sean Woods, Russ Ricketts,2008
Page Views: 463 total · 10/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Mar 5, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

I would say this could be 5.8, except for a few thin slab moves that are pretty run-out.
This is a 2nd pitch to the great West crack, which had a 2nd pitch ( the inside corner, now very overgrown)
It starts up the layback corner, traverse left out onto the slab and stay mostly in the middle of it.
If you venture to far left you will be on the 2nd pitch of Hotshots which is also 5.9 and worth doing as well.
You will either fuss over a 50' run-out trying to place tiny cams and brass nuts like I did or just run it out till clipping bolts.
After the 8 bolts there is a water runnel crack that is wide but much easier.

Location

2nd tier level of Warrior Wall, starts at Metolius Rap hangers at top of West crack and Potato Chip flake.

Protection

Mostly the 8 bolts, standard rack of which you had on West Crack will do. Bolted anchor at the top, can rap down Prime Rib.

Photos

Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.8
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.8
The run-outs aren't too bad but protect well with larger pieces: I used a .75, 1 and two #2 cams. And 12 quickdraws total. Nothing to make this PG13 in my opinion.
I like this pitch because it's so long and continuous. Apr 4, 2016
I did this with Sean. As my memory serves me it goes like this. If there's gear then you use it and if it's face we bolted it. I really don't recall it being dangerous at all. Hmmm. Mar 19, 2018
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
Hi Russ, I might have been screwing it up, but I have climbed it twice on lead, as well as the Hotshots. So what I remember is after leaving the belay ledge, there is a nice layback, then veer over left out onto slab, I can't remember if there are bolts here.but there is gear, if you go too far left you end up on Hotshots, so then wander up the slab and the gear gets thinner, the angle is low but I encountered a 50' run- out with a couple of worthless pieces of gear, even if it was 30' or 50' it did not really bother me, I just thought climbers might want to know that, then you get to the bolts on the upper slab and there is some big space between one or two, which is typical on a slab, and then the water runnel which I think was like #3 cam. Mar 19, 2018

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