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Routes in Cartoon Crag

Dewey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doc T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Donald Duck T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dopey T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Goofy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Huey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lazy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lewey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
P.A. Pops Up Again T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Sleepy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sneezy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Visual Imperative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: J. Stuberg, C. Coy, 1981.
Page Views: 219 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 12, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is almost a bomb, but not quite. It is not worth doing, but not worthy of a completely scathing review either.

Head up on good secure holds into the bulge, which is larger and harder than it appears. Use some trickery to get through the top of the bulge, passing the lip on less than secure holds in awkward body positions. There is broken and slick rock and a bush to contend with at precisely that location. The climbing gets easier after pulling the bulge. Go left-side in.

This was the only route at the crag that I was unhappy soloing. If you are going to do it, consider leading it with a rope for your safety.

Location

This is the slightly chunky looking overhang on the left side of the East Face of Cartoon Crag. A wide crack through a bulge is the defining feature and the crux climbing.

Protection

A standard light rack to 4".

Photos

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