Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: John Gunnels & Greg Coulter - June, 2010
Page Views: 83 total · 1/month
Shared By: John Gunnels on May 3, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

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This variation to Sharp may have been done in the past, but none of the long time Needles climbers I have contacted thought so. That being said:

Begin in the low angle trough on the east side of the Spire 1 ridge. Work your way up with very good protection until you feel like you're entering another "Conn Chimney". Exit the left wall utilizing a series of fingerlocks and face moves. Fifteen feet below the saddle, you will discover a very large, loose block. Not to worry... EXCELLENT placements are available just before and just after this surprise. Keep your head, pull through these crux moves and you'll be standing on the saddle. Step around the the exposed west face and cruise to the tiny summit of Sharp. Double rope rap down the WEST face.


Approach via the Spire 1/2 Gully. Either bushwhack your way UP thru acres of beetle kill, or hike DOWN from the Spire 1/2 notch. The beginning of the route is visible from "God's Own Drunk" on Khayyam Spire.


C4's #.3 thru #2. BD Stoppers #3 thru #9. 8 or 10 24" runners. Take spare webbing and inspect anchors before you rap.


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